Genes not Patentable

This is old news, now from more than two weeks ago, but the US justice department has decided naturally occurring genes should not be patentable.

Really??

It’s kind of strange this news sort of came and went with hardly a comment from the blogging community.  This is just the opinion of the US justice department, and might not hold, but it has could have wide ranging ramifications including in the area of genetically modified crops.

The article linked to above is mistaken, in my opinion, when it comes to what it says on GM crops.  It says they would not be covered by this decision, because the genes they use are man made and not naturally occurring.  I wasn’t aware we were to the point of being able to create artificial genes, at least as far as genetic engineering of plants, but maybe someone will put me in my place if I’m wrong on this…  As far as I’m aware all research into plant breeding, transgenic or otherwise, involves genes found in the wild.

This could be really big news, or it might be nothing.  Anyone have an opinion?  Wild speculation maybe?

Vavilov Horticultural Research Institute in Pavlovsk

The Vavilov institute in St. Petersburg, Russia, is one of the most important in Europe and it looks set to lose a vitally important research station housing more than 4000 fruit and berry species, many of which are extinct in their natural habitats.  Since these are live plants, they cannot be preserved by storing seeds or other materials in a seedbank, they must be kept growing.  This research station, consisting of 910,000 sq meters, is the largest field genebank in Europe.

Staff at the facility say a planned move would take at least 15 years to complete, and they are being given just 3 months.  The loss to science and global biodiversity would be devastating if this forced move proceeds as planned.

The institute lost a case in court brought by property developers who want to use the site to build exclusive housing.  An appeal to the ruling is pending, but this is expected to lose.  Apparently in this case the law seems to be solidly on the side of the property developers.

The last remaining hope is intervention by either Russian President Medvedev or Prime Minister Putin, either one of which can set aside the court ruling.  Via Twitter, President Medvedev announced he would look into the matter.

You can help by making a personal appeal to the Kremlin!  You can sign an online petition here.  You can also write the Kremlin a letter.  Or tweet them at @KremlinRussia_E.  Time is running out!

Tom Wagner Blight Resistant Potato Trials

With the recent announcement by the British government to move forward with GM blight resistant potato trials, it’s time to say some more about the blight resistant potato trials being organized by US potato breeder Tom Wagner.  I think there are important similarities and differences between these trials, and I’d like to explain some of them.  I’ll certainly be talking about more of these things in later posts too.

TPS Seedlings

It was a rainy day yesterday as I planted out my seedlings grown from True Potato Seed (TPS) received from Tom, so the pictures probably seem a little grey.  Rebsie of Daughter of the Soil planted hers out a few days ago, and many others across Europe are planting them in their gardens too.  This past year Tom travelled across Europe, meeting people, giving away his seeds and doing a series of workshops.

These seedlings are results of crosses made by Tom in his garden, between different historical and modern potato varieties.  There are a lot of these crosses, and for the sake of convenience these new varieties don’t yet have names but rather have been assigned a number.

These numbers and the genetics behind them are discussed by Tom in the videos I linked to above.

I was a little late in planting these seedlings out, and you can see some of the new tubers are starting to form in the little plastic pots I started the plants in.  Sorry, my camera didn’t focus properly on this.

In Simple Terms — The Genetics

The UK scientists say they are trialling two genes found in wild potato relatives, shown to result in late blight resistance.  These genes have been inserted into Desiree, a common commercial potato variety.  I have yet to verify this, but I believe we have these same two genes in our potatoes.  In this sense, our trials overlap. [edit: This probably isn’t true]

The genes in Tom Wagner’s potatoes go far beyond the trial in the UK.

Before, during and after Tom’s trip to Europe he’s been searching for and collecting the genetic materials from varieties of potatoes already shown to have blight resistance.  He’s been doing this by collecting tubers and seeds from these plants, putting them in has garden in the US, and using traditional breeding methods to cross pollinate them.  As opposed to the two genes the UK scientists are working with, Tom is working with millions of genes.

One Gene is Not Enough

One of the problems in breeding late blight resistance in potatoes is it’s a quickly mutating disease, capable of overcoming the resistance in a short time.  Many varieties created in the past are no longer resistant for this reason.  In order to overcome this problem, and create a variety that’s even more resistant, it’s necessary to use combinations of genes.  This is why the scientists in the UK are working with two and Tom is working with as many as he can find.

This is often referred to as vertical resistance or gene stacking.

The Ongoing Battle

Late blight dates back to the time of the Irish Potato famine when the potato varieties grown were susceptible to the disease and all quickly destroyed by a sudden outbreak.  The problem was made worse, because the number of varieties grown was very small, so there was little chance of any of them having natural resistance.

It’s believed late blight was originally brought to Europe in an infected tuber in a potato shipment from North America.  The disease quickly spread in Europe because the climate here provides a much more favorable environment for it.  It was also an unusually serious problem because the potato had become one of the most important sources of food for Europeans.

The approach taken to control late blight until now has been with chemical fungicides.   This approach has not been without it’s problems however.

Late blight is nearly impossible to control once the plant has become infected.  There are chemicals that can do this, but are generally considered too toxic for human consumption.  This means you have to prevent the plants from becoming infected in the first place, and so you need to begin applying chemicals when you first think an infection may be possible, often weeks before an infection would actually occur.

As late blight has mutated over the years, the chemicals used to control it have necessarily become stronger and stronger and more toxic to both people and the environment.  We are now to the point where literally tons and tons of these chemicals are used every year in Europe alone.  It’s to the point where developing stronger chemicals is no longer feasible.

A recent development in late blight mutation is it’s now reproducing sexually, and different strains can now exchange DNA.  Until now all reproduction has been asexual, meaning mutations were considerably slower.  It’s all but assured future mutations of late blight will now occur much more rapidly.

Two-Gene vs. Multi-Gene Approach

The two gene approach taken by the UK scientists has a high chance of resulting in late blight resistance. The real question however, is how long this resistance will last.

The argument of course, is when the resistance of this variety is no longer adequate, they will look for more genes in wild potato relatives and create a new GM variety.  If necessary, they can use more than two genes.  This approach however looks an awful lot like the fungicides now being used.  As these scientists move from one gene to the next, work their way through all the combinations they think of, eventually they will reach the end when it no longer works.

In a case like this, the interactions between all the genes are not likely to ever be fully understood.  The UK scientists will only be working with genes or combinations of genes they can single out as being important in existing varieties, and they won’t see everything.

Tom’s multi gene approach on the other hand is much more likely to be sustainable, and is more likely to show functional resistance on farms.

By using Tom’s approach an unknown number of genes will be involved in the resistance.  By taking existing resistant varieties, using the combinations of their genes in their entirety, all genes involved in that resistance can be used, not just the ones that can be specifically identified.  In addition, by creating crosses with several different resistant varieties, all the genes from all the varieties can be used in their totality and in different combinations.

By creating a number of resistant varieties in this way, then growing them in different places and continuing the process of crossing new resistant varieties as they appear, new resistant genes will be discovered.  This is in part because there will be natural mutations in the plants themselves creating new genes, but also previously unknown ones will be found.  This ongoing process is much more likely to produce late blight resistance in the long run, and the chance of ‘running out of genes’ like what will happen eventually with the GM approach is significantly reduced.

In addition by working with a number of different varieties resistant to late blight in different ways, all at the same time, the chance of losing the entire season’s potato harvest like what happened during the Irish Potato Famine is significantly reduced.

Other Benefits of Biodiversity

There is another very important benefit to Tom’s multi gene approach.  If one picture is worth 1000 words, have a look at some of Tom’s recent potato lines (click to enlarge):

Which would you rather eat, one of these or a GM Desiree potato?

One of the things Tom likes doing is working with older varieties that were favorites among our ancestors.  For example, Tom has Irish roots and likes to work with the Lumper potato which was the most widely grown at the time of the Irish Potato Famine.  In fact he’s created a number of blight resistant varieties using the Lumper as a basis.

By using Tom’s traditional breeding methods, it’s possible to recover traits in popular old varieties, and bring them back into new ones.

Some Other Important Differences

How about we talk security fences here?  Here’s a picture of my security fence:

It’s a 4 ft hedge behind a shallow canal.

Unlike the £20.000 8 ft security fence and 24 hour security guard the scientists in the UK have, I only have the good graces of the other allotmenteers in my complex.  Someone is usually around in the day, but otherwise my plot is unattended.

Another difference is funding.  The costs of everyone participating in Tom’s trials are paid out of pocket.  Tom in particular has devoted his whole life to his work, has never been paid royalties for his varieties, and uses huge amounts of his family’s money to pay his costs.  If we had the money invested in the UK security fence alone, we could dramatically expand our trials not to mention offset some of our expenses.

A Specific Response to the UK Scientists

In the media recently were some statements made by people involved in the UK trials, and I wanted to respond to one of them.

From the BBC:

Professor Jones said that the trial was well within the biosecurity parameters required in order for permission to be granted.

“The rules are that the field trial has to be at least 20 metres from adjacent conventional potato fields,” he said.

“Very hypothetically, if a few pollen grains make it from our GM potatoes to some cultivated potatoes, given that we do not eat the fruit but the tubers, there is absolutely no way that the DNA we use can enter the human food chain.”

“There are also no wild relatives of potato in Europe that it could cross (breed) with.”

I think the argument could be made that contamination from the field trial is unlikely, but the idea of 20 metres being adequate isolation is totally absurd.  First the variety used in this trial, Desiree, produces large amounts of pollen and is a very poor choice in terms of reducing contamination.  Insects can carry pollen from potatoes large distances, and if these potatoes are ever grown commercially the contamination would be widespread.  If the scientists were concerned about spreading contamination, why not use a variety that doesn’t produce pollen?

A male sterile variety, for example British Queen, could easily pick up a single grain of pollen from this GM variety, turning it into a seed ball that could get lost in the field and produce weeds for years to come.

Potato tubers themselves are always left behind in farmers fields, which then turn into weeds.  Potatoes by their nature are a weedy plant.  There may not be potato relatives growing wild in Europe, but there are plenty of possibilities for contamination.

The spreading of this sort of contamination threatens the breeding work I’ve laid out here, and puts the entire future of organic potatoes in jeopardy.

Mulching, Sheet Mulching, Lasagna Gardening and Raised Beds

Okay, it’s the time of year where a lot of people are trying to figure these things out, so I thought I would make a post.  I’m pretty sure I’ve covered all these things before, but it’s the nature of blogs that things scroll off the front page and get lost, so it’s probably a good idea to say it all again.

Mulching

Christopher and Rosemary made a post recently about this, with lots of great information.  I’m just going to add a few things to what they already said.

In terms of controlling weeds, there are two main mulching techniques, sheet mulching and using material high in carbon.  In case of the former the idea is to smother the weeds, and the latter is to create a chemical reaction between carbon (C) and nitrogen (N).

C and N are everywhere in the garden, and all composting and rotting is a reaction between these two elements.  Dry brown plant materials are high in C, and green plant materials and manures are high in N.  In addition there’s N present everywhere in the air, and it’s an essential nutrient in the ground.  All plant and animal life depends on N.

When you put high C mulch on the ground and it starts to rot, it needs N from somewhere, and it tends to take it out of the top 2 or so centimeters (roughly 1″) of the ground.  Because it makes the surface layer of the garden soil N poor, it makes it hard for plants to grow in it.  Any plants with roots deeper than this can get N elsewhere in the ground, which is why you can place mulch around established plants.

After mulch rots, it releases the N into the ground again, so there is no net loss of N in your garden.  You do not need to add extra N to make up for any loss of N, because none is lost.

If you want to use mulch to kill established plants with roots deeper than a few centimeters, normally you use some sort of sheet mulch.  In my garden I use plastic, what in Europe is usually called ground cloth and in the US I think is usually called landscape fabric.  Probably most people reading this know what I’m talking about.  It’s a reusable woven plastic material, often with green or orange lines, that lets water and air pass through it but blocks light.  In this way it destroys weeds, but not other life in the ground.

Many people use biodegradable sheet mulches like cardboard or newspaper, which can be left in place to rot as well as covered with dirt and planted into right away.  Lasagna gardening can make use of this principle.  I use too much sheet mulch to use something that’s not reusable, otherwise I would have to bring too many mulching materials into my garden.

As an alternative to using sheet mulching to kill established weeds, you can also use a very reactive high C material.  Wood chips are an example of this.  Fresh wood chips are very aggressive in removing N from whatever they come in contact with, and will generally kill established weeds.  For this reason, they are normally used on paths around the garden rather than in the garden itself.  It’s also important not to turn wood chips under, because they will make the ground very N-poor and difficult to grow anything.

The other thing that happens when you use mulch, which is unrelated to everything else I’ve said here, is even when weeds to manage to grow through the mulch their roots tend to come up near the surface.  This generally means they can be removed with a rake or are very easy to pull out by hand.

Lasagna Gardening and Raised Beds

For no-dig/permaculture style gardening, it’s important to control the weeds with mulching techniques.  There’s no such thing as a garden free of weeds!  You will always have to do some weeding by hand, but you want to make your job as easy as possible.

It’s also important to keep the ground as loose as possible, so when there are weeds, they are as easy as possible to remove.  This is normally best achieved by maintaining distinct layers in your garden soil, which help promote good drainage and a good home for beneficial organisms.  These layers are where the idea of lasagna gardening come from.

You need not do very much special to get these layers, by simply not disturbing the soil and adding home made compost from time to time on the top of your garden beds, they will develop layers on their own.

It’s also important not to walk in your beds, in order to minimize compacting of the soil.

It’s very possible to combine the idea of sheet mulching and lasagna gardening, and Ewa recently made a post about this including a how-to video.  For my purposes however, this is kind of a lot of work and it’s not always necessary.  Constructing a bed like this is only necessary if you have a spot where you want to build a garden bed, that has established weeds, and you want to plant in it right away.

Raised beds, while convenient because of their height, meaning you don’t have to bend down so far, are also not always necessary.  It’s also possible to make use of what Kenny calls borderless raised beds.  These aren’t really raised beds at all, but rather a place in your garden you simply designate and treat as a raised bed but isn’t raised.  These generally work as well or nearly as well as a true raised bed, and what I mostly use.

Unless you have recycled materials available, constructing the type of bed in Ewa’s post or a true raised bed can involve a lot of unnecessary, expensive and sometimes environmentally unfriendly materials like peat products or timber.  For example raised beds are generally built with wood that if treated will leach chemicals into your garden, and otherwise will only last a few years before needing to be replaced.  They can also be built with bricks or stones, but this is more work and the materials have to be brought from somewhere.  In any case, raised beds are generally only worth building if you know you will use the same garden for a number of years.

My Methodology

Sheet mulching takes about 6 months to kill the plants under it, and since my garden is in continuous use, I can usually plan in advance when needing to kill an area of established weeds.  I use the woven plastic material I mentioned above, and on an ongoing basis mulch parts of my garden.  Any time a part of my garden becomes unused for a time, like at the beginning of winter, I make an effort to keep it covered with plastic if possible.  It’s of course always better to keep something growing in the ground, like a cover crop, but this isn’t always possible.

I built a number of raised beds I posted about here.  Otherwise, I make ‘borderless’ raised beds by building temporary paths with small paving stones, about 30cm or a foot square.  In the picture on the top of the same post above, you can see I then use a lot of straw to control annual weeds.

Before I plant in each bed I rake any straw that may remain from the previous year to the side, loosen the ground a little bit with a digging fork, then plant directly into it.  Some of the beds also get some added compost.

The whole process in the spring of first removing the plastic mulch from the ground, building paths with paving stones, loosening the ground with a digging fork and raking the ground clear all takes a very short time and is very little work compared with digging weeds out every year like the other gardeners in my community garden do.  I’ll try to post some pictures of this sometime, so you can see better what I’m talking about.

Soil Test

I had a soil test of my garden done last summer, and I’ve been meaning to post the results.  Since they are in Dutch, and probably not many of my readers can understand them as they are, I will attempt to translate.  However the original report can be found here.

You can compare this to my earlier do-it-yourself efforts at soil testing.

Measured values are given first, followed by target values in parenthesis if these are given in the original report.

Organic Material   10.3%

Calcium                 2-5%

pH (KCl method)     7.2  (>6.4)

Available Nutrients:

Phosphorus              58   (45)

Potassium                22   (21)

Magnesium              230  (125)

Nitrogen                  1.4  (1.0)

Unavailable Nutrients:

Phosphorus               1370  (1000)

Potassium                     5  (7)

Biological Activity:

Detected mg of CO2 per 100g per 7 days     86   (70)

Conclusions and Advice:

Conclusion:  Soil has a high organic content, and a good pH level.  For most nutrients, there is sufficient to excessive available and unavailable amounts.  There is sufficient nitrogen and biological activity.

Advice:  Add 300 liters of fresh manure or high quality compost per 100m2. As an alternative, 50 liters of dried cow manure per 100m2.  The actual amount varies with crops grown.  Lime loving plants (soft fruit, potatoes, cabbage, carrots, etc) 2 kg of (dolomite) lime per 100m2.  Nitrogen loving plants (soft fruit, potatoes, leaf vegetables, cabbage, beet, etc) only in case of slow growth 500g nitrogen per 100m2 in the form of dry organic fertilizer.  For example, this can be 4Kg bone or blood meal per 100m2.  Further fertilizing is not necessary.

The advice seems to be open to some interpretation.  I probably don’t add quite as much compost as they say here, and I don’t add any of the other fertilizers or manures, but since they say amounts vary with crops grown I guess you could say I’m following the advice.  It’s worth mentioning I also grow a lot of nitrogen fixing plants.

At the same time I could be adding an awful lot of manures and nitrogen fertilizers and also be following the advice.  300 liters of fresh manure per 100m2 is an awful lot!

I think it’s more a part of the culture here to depend on soluble nitrogen in the form of manures or fertilizers, rather than fixed nitrogen, and that may be part of the reason the advice is given in the way it is.  The test doesn’t seem to show fixed nitrogen.

The excessive availability of some of the nutrients is probably related to past chemical fertilizer use.

I purposely waited until the end of the second growing season to do this test, so I had a chance to amend the soil and grow some nitrogen fixing plants.  I also wanted to give any previously used fertilizers a chance to wash away.

I do sometimes notice low nitrogen levels, and I also notice when I grow a heavy feeder like sweet corn, the soil is pretty depleted for the next season.  Mostly my experience is that my soil is in pretty good shape, and this test seems to confirm that.  It can also be true that some of the excessively high levels of the major nutrients (NPK) can tie up and make unavailable some of the micronutrients, and I could be having problems with this.