Keep Gardening Free!

‘Free’ can mean several things, and all of them are important when it comes to gardening. In September I wrote a post comparing heirloom gardening with free software like Linux, and those of you who are involved in free software or intellectual rights reform will know exactly what I am talking about here.

There is increasingly an encroachment of unnecessary commercial products into gardening. All of us should consider using products that are really useful, but at the same time make sure we don’t lose free or cheap alternatives. We also shouldn’t waste our money on unnecessary products, just because they are marketed to us, because then only large companies will benefit.

For many of us heirloom plants are exciting because we know that with few exceptions they are better than commercial alternatives and are free (or at least cheaper). Most of us are also aware that heirloom plants are hard to come by, and many of them are endangered. For some reason a lot of people don’t fully make the connection that this is because large companies aggressively and successfully market alternatives.

Don’t give your money to the wrong people! Buying commercial alternatives endangers the availability of cheaper and often better products, and can have environmental and social consequences you don’t expect. Choose cheaper and/or local products from a local source, over expensive imported items. If you can, grow or make them yourself.

Your Plants Don’t Need Vitamins!

Companies that sell food make huge profits by breaking down what we eat into a series of components like vitamins, minerals, starches, sugars, carbohydrates and so on, or even just into food groups like fruit and vegetables, dairy, etc. By promoting these individual components (or expensive alternatives like artificial sweeteners) and encouraging us to eat more of the right ones, or more of their alternative products, they get us to buy and eat much more than we ordinarily would. What we are all now realizing is that the secret to health are in Michael Pollans 7 words: Eat Food. Not too Much. Mostly Plants. The similar term often used with plants is ‘feed the soil, not the plants’.

For 98% of gardeners, fertilizers are not an issue, they are simply unnecessary and a waste of money. Most people who use fertilizers do so because they are afraid of what will happen if they don’t, not because they really need them. The most common commercial fertilizers available to gardeners are waste products of industry, and they sell and promote them to make money, not because they are useful products. Fertilizers are an issue for commercial farmers because they grow more intensively, don’t normally practice crop rotation and the use of products like compost is not economically feasible. Gardeners are not farmers, and don’t need the products farmers use!

The only thing your garden needs is sensible crop rotation and homemade compost. Maybe you will need a little lime, with some plants and if your soil is very acid. For beginning gardeners you may need to purchase some compost to get started, but generally you don’t need very much. Together with a few tools, this is all you need!

Don’t get caught up in the ‘what if’ logic of vitamins! What if you are missing something, and you don’t know it? Maybe you will get sick if you don’t take a multi vitamin! We spend all summer in our garden, what if the ground is missing something and what if we end up wasting our time? Don’t fall for this.

Don’t Buy Expensive Potting Soil

Besides garden tools, potting soil is one thing most gardeners buy. Of course it’s always best to use your own compost, but it’s not suitable for starting seedlings because it contains too many micro-organisms and most people consider compost too dirty for indoor use. Most potting soil is based on peat, and there are some environmental issues with this, so it’s really best to avoid peat products if at all possible. At the same time, it’s important to put things into to perspective, and not use an expensive alternative without thinking about it.

Peat is naturally occurring, and grows in bogs. Peat lands cover about 3% of the world’s land mass, and about 7% of this has been commercially exploited. Unfortunately a part of this exploitation has taken place in environmentally sensitive areas, often in unsustainable ways. Why with so much to choose from do they need to take it in an environmentally destructive way? I suppose it comes down to profits. It seems like it is the same with many things these days. Finland is currently generating 2.6% of it’s energy by burning peat, and in the process releasing more greenhouse gases into the atmosphere than all of it’s cars combined. I don’t have reliable figures for peat consumption from the various sources, but consider that industrial use like this probably dwarfs consumption by home gardeners. In addition, consumption by gardeners is very small when compared to the world’s total peat reserves.

As gardeners, we should not allow expensive commercial products to replace a cheap natural resource like this in our gardens.

Being the one thing almost all gardeners buy every year, there is the potential for companies to make huge profits by marketing peat in different ways. For example marketing it as an environmentally unfriendly product, and encouraging you to buy alternatives. Probably the most common way is to sell you value added peat moss, in the form of mixed potting soil. By itself peat does not have enough nutrients to sustain plant growth, so nutrients need to be added. By adding a few cents worth of chemical fertilizer, companies can sell it at a much higher price as potting soil. Are you an organic gardener? You’re not if you use commercial potting soil or seed starting mixes!

One of the best and cheapest potting soils can be made by mixing peat moss with compost. As little as 25% compost is suitable for most plants, but of course more compost is better and 100% compost is the best. Again, this would not be suitable for young plants or starting seedlings, because of the micro-organisms in the compost.

Don’t expect making your own peat/compost potting soil to be easy. In my area, potting soil is such an important source of revenue that garden centers which stock peat moss at all, generally won’t sell it in the spring when it would be in competition with their potting soils. I always have to buy it out of season. Often when I am able to find it for sale, a clerk in the store comes running up to me warning me I am buying the wrong thing, and tells me I should by potting soil instead. Don’t be surprised if you have to fight for the right to buy it!

Botanical Gardens Are Not Your Friend

The Convention on Biological Diversity, implemented in 1993 and since then been the source of much criticism, dramatically changed the way public plant collections like botanical gardens and research institutions function.

Before this time public plant collections were funded to different degrees by local governments or through individual donations. The problem was many seed collections we underfunded, and vulnerable to failing governments and other financial difficulties. In addition, large seed companies like Monsanto and Syngenta depended on these seed collections as the source of the genetic material for commercial products they developed like their F1 hybrid or GM varieties, and were increasing finding it difficult to patent their varieties under these circumstances.

To very briefly summarize a very complex treaty, a compromise was worked out where large companies who had an interest in the genetic material would guarantee funding for these collections. What these companies got in return was the exclusive rights to use the genetic materials, and the right to patent them. Nearly every country is bound by this and related treaties, obliging them not to release and plant material to the public. This effectively means these collections have been turned into museums, and they only way we as people have the right to use the plants is if large seed companies decide to sell them to us.

So what does this really mean in practice? It means botanical gardens have become platforms for large companies to promote their products. By declaring themselves ‘peat free’, in order to save the environment, they really mean they are promoting peat alternatives for their own commercial commercial interests.

When you go to a public collection featuring edible plants, for example fruit trees, expect to be told wonderful stories of old varieties and biodiversity, be given delicious samples, then be herded into their store where they only sell commercial varieties. Because the old tasty varieties are fresh in your mind, and none of what they sell is clearly labeled, they expect you will probably buy their products without thinking.

If you want to grow the kinds of plants in public plant collections, you need to buy them from some place that specializes in old variety plants or get them from a fellow gardener or a seed exchange.

How do you know you are buying the right thing?

Buy local products from local sources, avoid brand named items and choose the cheapest alternatives. For many people buying the cheapest alternatives is counter-intuitive, because they feel they can get a higher quality more environmentally friendly product if they spend more money. This may be true with locally made products, but for commercial products the reality is that it almost always comes down to marketing, and if you spend more money you just give your money to the wrong people for the wrong reasons.

When you buy plants or seeds, buy them from a place that specializes in heirloom varieties. The reason for this is most places that sell commercial variety seeds and plants have signed an agreement with their suppliers not to distinguish between commercial and heirloom varieties. This means nothing will be clearly marked, and you won’t know what you are buying. The only way to get around this problem is by buying your plant materials from a company that doesn’t sell any commercial varieties. If you want Open Pollinated or heirloom varieties, don’t buy them unless they are clearly marked as such, or the company you are buying them from doesn’t sell anything else!

Learning Latin

For people who save seeds or breed their own varieties, learning the Latin names of your plants can tell you a lot about them. For example, if you want to know if plants will cross pollinate with each other, the Latin name can give you clues to this. The Latin name can also give you clues about hardiness, cultivation methods and so on. Scientists assign Latin names in order to group similar plants together.

Another reason for using the Latin names for plants, is it eliminates confusion caused by local languages. When a vegetable is called a swede in the UK and a rutabaga in the US, and you don’t know what to call it when talking to a German speaking gardener, calling it Brassica napus eliminates the confusion!

I’m just going to list a few examples here, for a more complete listing you should consult a seed savers manual or a plant dictionary. There are a number of online resources for this as well.

Latin names contain three parts the family, genus and species. For vegetable growers, the most important families are Amaryllidaceae (Onions and related), Brassicaceae (Cabbages and related), Chenopodiaceae (Beets and related), Compositae (Lettuce and related), Cucurbitaceae (Pumpkins and related), Leguminosae (Beans and related), Solanaceae (Tomatoes and related) and Umbelliferae (Carrots and related).

Lets have a closer look at one of these families, for example the Brassicaceae family. Most plants are referred to by their genus and species, so in the above example of Brassica napus, Brassica is the genus and napus is the species. Here are a few more common examples within this family:

Armoracia rusticana: Horseradish

Brassica oleracea: Cabbage, Broccoli and others

Brassica rapa: Turnip, Chinese Cabbage and others

Eruca sativa: Rocket

So how can you use this information? Well let’s say you wanted to grow turnips next to rutabagas (swedes), and you want to know if they will cross. The Latin name for turnip is Brassica rapa, and for rutabagas Brassica napus. By looking at the Latin names it is not completely clear in this case, because they are from the same genus but different species. Again based only on the Latin names you could conclude that a cross would be less likely to occur with Rocket (Eruca sativa), because both the genus and species are different, but in fact a cross between plants of different species doesn’t usually happen, so growing rutabagas and turnips next to each other would probably not result in a cross.

What about other kinds of genetic compatibility? Rebsie on Daughter of the Soil recently discussed grafting potato scions onto tomato root stock, for the purpose of making large numbers of potato seeds (not to be confused with seed potatoes!). A scion is the term for a branch or piece of foliage, cut in a way that is intended to be spliced to the roots of another plant. Let’s look at this from the point of view of the plant’s Latin names. Both potatoes and tomatoes belong to the family Solanaceae, and the Latin names are as follows:

Lycopersicon lycopersicum: Tomato

Solanum tuberosum: Potato

In this case the genus and species are both different, but being in the same family it seems is enough compatibility for the plants to be grafted together. It’s very unlikely these two plants would ever cross pollinate with each other however.

Previous Posts Summary

It’s funny how with gardening blogs we always seem to be working with seasons. There are seasons in our garden, but also seasons with our blogs. With a new year ahead of us in our gardens, many new blog readers are popping up looking for gardening information. In addition many new gardening blogs are popping up as fellow gardeners want to share this year’s garden with others on the Internet. It’s also the time of year we all have too much time on our hands anyway.

It occurred to me that this blog is a bit clogged with a large number of posts, and this could make it difficult for a new reader to go through it all. If you are interested in particular topics, for example if you want to see pictures of some of the plants I grew last year or want some of my recipes, following the categories links on the front page of this blog is a good way to do this. I’m not going to list posts that are easy to find in this way here.

This blog started with some posts defining exactly what heirloom plants are, on a very basic level discussed some plant genetics and what exactly an F1 hybrid is, as well as introductions to some basic seed saving and storing techniques. Saving tomato seeds is a very good place for a beginning seed saver to start, and I made a post about this. I followed up on seed saving a bit later with a post about biennial plants, and again with suggestions for easy plants to save seeds from. An important thing anyone should consider when saving seeds is inbreeding depression. Growing garlic is very easy, one of my favorite garden plants, and here is a post about that. I also posted about cover crops.

While many people prefer to use fluorescent bulbs for growing seedlings, grow lights are also a good option. Many people are discouraged from using grow lights because they feel it’s too associated with growing drugs, but in fact they are the same lights used in public lighting and are frequently cheap and easily available almost everywhere in the world if you look for them. With a little planning and shopping around, they can be cheaper to purchase and operate than fluorescent lights.

When you start seedlings indoors, don’t forget to harden them before moving them outside!

If you grow peas, beans, garbanzo beans, lentils or any other leguminous nitrogen-fixing plants, you need to know about nitrogen fixing bacteria!

I am a big fan of my weed burner, and I made two posts about this here and here. I am also a fan of my Earthway seeder.

I am a member of the Seed Savers Exchange. I wrote first about it here, followed up here, and posted about them again here.

I think composting has to be a favorite activity of almost any gardener. I wrote two articles on composting, first an introduction to composting and mulching then a post specific to container composting.

Last year I made a post about coffee as a crop, and how the world market for coffee was turned upside down with the introduction of an F1 hybrid coffee bean variety. What happened with coffee has been repeated over and over with other crops with the introduction of hybrid varieties, and is a very import thing for everyone who cares about what they eat and grow to understand.

Long term storage of your harvest is an issue for all of us. One of the ways I do this is by dehydrating my harvest.

All Europeans and everyone living everywhere, should be aware of the so called Agricultural Apartheid as it exists in Europe. In practice what this means is all fruits and vegetables sold anywhere in Europe are commercial varieties and the seeds that produce them come from large seed companies. These rules make it virtually impossible for farmers to save their own seeds and regrow their own crops in Europe. This has also become an issue recently in Turkey, which may become a member of the European Union.

What has to be one of the most important books to be published in 2006 was Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma. A must read for anyone who cares about what they eat. We also reached the 100th anniversary of Upton Sinclare’s The Jungle, and it’s really amazing how many things still haven’t changed since then.

Open Source software is a growing worldwide phenomenon, as people get tired of commercial software like that produced by Microsoft and all of the politics surrounding it. Linux is growing in popularity, and has even been recognized by governments around the world. There is a huge and well organized group of people behind the free software movement. Few people understand that the issues are almost the same as heirloom gardening, but we lack the large numbers of organized people. What can we do about this?

What comes after GM foods? I made a post about Marker Assisted Selection or MAS.

The US government has addressed the issue of hunger by redefining it. Now we have food insecurity!

Everyone needs to think about buying food locally, from people you know.

Of all the eating advice we get from everywhere, all the trendy diets and the promotions from cooking shows on TV, they all have one message in common. Eat more food! It’s time for us all to realize we need to ‘Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.‘. Here is also some advice on how to avoid eating and growing GM foods.

Us food gardeners and seed savers are a dying breed. Here is a post on gardening trends.

Bird flu is an import issue for everyone everywhere in the world. Here is the other side of the story.

Biofuels are about to become an important part of our lives. Since they are crops that are grown on the same land as our food is, they are about to make a big impact on our food supply.

Here is what everyone should know before buying seeds from a seed catalog.

Inbreeding Depression

I’ve touched on this briefly in the past, but I thought I would go into this a bit more, because it is really an important issue for people who save their own seeds.

There are three main kinds of plants: inbreeding, out breeding and plants that do both.

Inbreeding plants are by far the easiest to save seeds from, because they self pollinate and you don’t need to worry about cross pollination issues. These plants have also generally evolved to avoid inbreeding depression. Examples of plants that fall into this category are tomatoes, peas and grains.

Out breeding plants are a slightly different story. Out breeding plants cross pollinate, and you must consider this when saving seeds. Often the easiest way to prevent cross pollination is to grow only one type of a particular plant species. Examples of out breeding plants are corn and cabbage related plants. With out breeding plants, you also need to be careful to avoid inbreeding depression.

Inbreeding depression occurs when the gene pool becomes too small because too few plants of the same species were cross pollinated with one another. To avoid this problem, you must save seeds from a number of the same type of plant. Exactly what this number is varies from plant to plant, and indeed is the point of some disagreement between gardeners. In general if a plant is completely outbreeding, you must save seeds from more plants than a plant that is both in- and out-breeding. In some cases you have to save seeds from 100 or more plants, and in other cases a 4-5 is enough. If you’re not sure, it’s better to save seeds from too many plants than too few.

When your seeds experience inbreeding depression, they will lose their vigor and and yields will decrease. In addition, some previously dormant recessive genes may express themselves resulting in undesirable traits, possibly rendering your seeds unusable. These problems may not show up for several generations after the seeds were saved.

Normally the only solution for inbreeding depression is to either create a hybrid variety by cross pollinating with another type of plant from the same species, or to introduce some new pollination partners with seeds obtained from another source.

The opposite of inbreeding depression is usually referred to as hybrid vigor. This is often seen by plant breeders when they create a new variety of plant.

Storms

I read in the paper the other day the first 10 days of January this year were the warmest ever on record. The weather is still absurdly warm for this time of year.

The other thing that’s been happening here are wind storms. Of course everyone knows about Holland and it’s windmills, and let’s face it, it’s always windy here. This year we have had wind storms both in number and intensity that I don’t ever remember seeing before.

They measure wind here according to Wind Force, or the Beaufort scale. For me F5 means too much wind to work in the garden, and even F4 is a bit on the windy side. The scale is not linear, so as you get into higher numbers the wind gets stronger faster. F11 is starting to be hurricane strength. Already in the last 2 months we have had 2 storms that reached F9-10, and as I type this now a storm is brewing where the forecast is F10. They are expecting wind speeds of 130 kph. Germany and France are also expecting the same storm.

In Amsterdam I get less wind, because it’s a bit inland and the buildings block a lot of the wind.

In Fryslân, where the garden is, it’s on the north coast of the country and it gets much more wind. The past few storms have blown tiles off the roofs of nearby buildings. One night it blew the chimney cap off the house I was sleeping in and the same storm blew out all the windows in my friend’s caravan.

I gave up trying to stake my brussel sprout plants up a long time ago, and they are simply growing on their side. Amazingly there are still things growing in the garden, but at this rate I’m really wondering what will survive the winter.