The Truth About Heirloom Tomatoes!

XKCD: Duty Calls

I hear a lot of people say well intentioned but not always accurate things about tomatoes, and it’s time to set the record straight.

Disease Resistance

It’s true some (not all) modern tomato varieties have some special disease resistance. The most important diseases are Fusarium and Verticillium wilts. These are different but similar diseases, with nearly identical symptoms, and depending on your climate you may have one or the other in your soil but probably not both. If your plants get this the leaves will become seriously wilted, and while they may still produce some tomatoes the harvest will be much lower than usual. This is soil borne, so you may have it in one part of your garden but not another. It’s not very contagious so if a plant gets it you may as well let it grow and see what happens.

While these wilt diseases are common, most gardeners probably won’t have them in their gardens in which case they are simply not an issue. It’s not worth losing sleep over this until you know for sure you have this problem! If a wilt disease is present in your soil, there is little else you can do except grow resistant tomato varieties or grow your plants in pots with known disease free soil like purchased potting soil, home made compost or a mix of the two.

It’s worth mentioning some heirloom varieties may have some resistance to these wilt diseases, no one really knows because there hasn’t been much research done on this.

For the home gardener, modern tomatoes don’t have any other important disease resistance!

The other disease resistance in modern tomatoes is only important to farmers. For example the tobacco mosaic virus generally only occurs in greenhouses, but because it is common in tobacco plants if you do smoke you should be sure to keep your tobacco away from your tomato plants and wash your hands before gardening.

Heirloom tomatoes have disease resistance too! For most other plant diseases, some resistance can be found in a few heirloom tomato varieties. For example common tomato and potato diseases are early and late blight, and while no tomato has complete resistance to these, some currant tomatoes have shown a little resistance. No commercial varieties have any resistance to these two blights.

It all depends on what diseases you have in your garden, and it’s important to understand this before coming to the conclusion that choosing either commercial or heirloom varieties is the answer.

It’s Not Necessarily True Hybrids Are More Productive

There is often the assertion, usually by seed companies trying to sell more seeds, that hybrid varieties are more productive. This is a very disputed assertion! The basic idea is that if you have a highly inbreed plant variety, it can show signs of inbreeding depression which can result in lower yields. Since creating a hybrid variety is essentially the opposite of inbreeding, it must result in higher yields.

The flaw in this logic is that tomatoes are naturally inbreeding plants, and don’t usually have problems with inbreeding depression.

It’s not that productivity gains are not possible in hybrids, but it’s not always true and many heirloom varieties can be as productive as hybrids.

It’s Not Always True Heirloom Tomatoes Taste Better Than Hybrids

Commercial varieties are almost always breed for supermarket cosmetics, growing and transportation convenience and low cost of production. Taste is not usually a factor when they are developed.

If you compare a heirloom tomato to a commercial variety under these circumstances, it’s certain to taste better.

You can make your own hybrids! By choosing two of your favorite heirloom tomatoes and cross-pollinating them, you can easily end up with a tomato that tastes better than any pure breed OP or heirloom variety.

The parent varieties of commercial varieties are generally kept secret, so it’s not possible to experiment with or improve on these. If you make your own hybrids you can collaborate with other gardeners and work together on finding great combinations.

There Are Problems With Heirloom Varieties

All food plant varieties need to be periodically ‘grown out’. This means a large number of plants, sometimes numbering in the hundreds, are grown out and selected for desirable traits. Plants with undesirable traits are rogued out or removed, and seeds are saved from plants with desirable traits. When this isn’t done, the genetics of a particular variety will deteriorate slowly over time and develop undesirable traits leading to problems like susceptibility to diseases or pests, loss of productivity and loss of quality.

Growing out plant varieties takes time and money. Some home or hobby gardeners do large scale grow outs, but this involves only a small percentage of heirloom varieties. Commercial varieties simply have the money and support of large companies behind them who can afford to grow them out more often and maintain them better.

Many heirloom varieties are in a very bad state in this way! This is not just tomatoes but all different kinds of fruits and vegetables.

Also, because many heirloom varieties were developed in a single person’s garden or in a single region they have become ‘landraces’, that is well suited for that particular region. If you try to grow a variety like this in a different region, it likely won’t perform as well.

There is Something You Can Do About This

It may not be possible for you to grow hundreds of plants in your garden and do a full scale grow out of a particular variety, but you can do this yourself on a smaller scale.

If for example you are able to grow in the neighborhood of 10-50 plants of the same tomato variety, only save seeds from the best ones and hopefully do this for a few years in a row, you will likely end up with a significantly improved variety which has also been acclimated specifically to your garden.

Other Things You Can Do To Improve Your Chances

Talk to other gardeners and find out what’s done well for them. In particular if a nearby gardener has found something that does well in your climate, consider getting some seeds from them and growing it too.

Not all seeds are equal. If something didn’t do well for you, but did well for someone else who got the seeds from somewhere else, consider getting some of the same seeds and trying again. I know the Seed Savers Exchange is doing grow outs of many of their varieties, and I imagine other seed companies are by now too. Consider that improved seeds may soon become available for popular varieties.

Seed List

For some time now I’ve had a list of seeds I was offering to readers of this blog. Since last year I mostly only grew garlic, this list from two years ago is starting to get very out of date and so I’m going to take it down. Perhaps in the fall I will put another list together.

If there is anything you see on this blog and you would like to have some seeds, please send me an email and we’ll see if we can arrange something. If we have never traded seeds before, and you have nothing to offer in return in the way of seeds I usually ask that you pay a little bit to cover the cost of postage and packing materials. This is usually the equivalent of a couple of US dollars in cash sent in a letter, and I accept several different currencies.

In August or September I will probably have some garlic bulbs to share. I will post details then. If you don’t have anything to trade, shipping costs will be a little higher for this.

Sending anything like this to the US is always a bit of a problem. Most seeds can be sent to the US, but require you apply for a permit in advance, this is called the ‘Small Lots of Seed Permit’. Since I am not a US resident, I cannot apply for this permit, you must do this yourself. Imports of garlic are generally not allowed into the US. If you want to go to the trouble of getting a permit, I will try to cooperate with you on sending some seeds. Please send me an email for more details.

Seed Swaps

Emma of The Fluffius Muppetus blog and The Alternative Kitchen Garden podcast just reminded me it’s the season for seed swaps.  Check out her latest podcast.

For those of you in the UK within traveling distance of Brighton, you may want to visit Seedy Sunday on 3 February.  Everyone else will have to search around themselves.  I’m sure there are Seedy Saturdays and Sundays going on across Canada this year, and the links on the front of this blog may help you find more information about these.

For those of you who don’t have any seeds to share, these events almost always have free seeds or seeds available for purchase.

How Long Are Seeds Good For?

This is a question that comes up frequently, and was recently asked by farmgirl_dk in a discussion on Future House. I thought rather than write a very long comment I would make a post about it here.

When you buy a packet of seeds it almost always comes printed with a message saying the seeds are intended for planting in the current gardening year. The question is, can you keep the seeds longer?

In North America seed companies are generally required by law to germination test seeds before they sell them, and the test results are only valid for a few months (about 6 I think). If seeds do not have a minimum germination rate, the seed companies are not allowed to sell them. Once the period of validity for the germination test expires, they either have to be retested or discarded.

What this means is most of the larger seed companies will simply have a large stock of seeds for a particular plant and germination test them each year. Each year if they pass they sell them, otherwise they discard them.

Outside of North America germination testing is not always required. I’ve certainly on more than one occasion purchased a packet of dead seeds here in Amsterdam.

Few seed companies want to admit they are selling very old seeds, so they are generally not labelled with the year they were actually produced. In order to predict how long seeds will last, you really have to have some idea of how old they are.

Since a very important factor in how long seeds last is how well they are stored, and when you buy a packet of seeds you have no idea if it was handled correctly throughout the whole distribution process, it’s very hard to know the condition of seeds when you get them. This is one of the reasons the validity period of the germination test is only a few months, and they are labelled as intended for use within a short period of time.

What I’ve said so far mostly applies to larger seed companies, and seeds purchased through seed catalogs or at garden centers.

If however you purchase seeds directly from a small reputable seed company, like the ones listed on the front page of this blog, they will generally not only label the seeds with the year they were produced but also properly store them up until the time they send them to you. They also don’t usually sell you seeds more than a year or two old. Assuming you store them properly yourself, it is possible to have a good idea of how long these seeds will last. Of course the same thing applies to seeds you have saved yourself.

How Long Are they Good For?

Every plant is a little different, but assuming proper storage, here are some times for common vegetables:

Tomatoes: 5-10 years

Peppers: 3 years

Sweet Corn: 3 years

Other Corn: 5-10 years

Parsnips: 1 year

Cole Plants: 5 years

Carrots: 3 years

Beets and Chard: 6 years

Lettuce: 3 years

Spinach: 5 years

What Happens When They Go Bad?

When seeds get too old their rate of germination decreases, and the chances of them developing into a plant is less.

In general, the only thing that matters for a healthy plant is the DNA contained within the seed. If you have old seed, you manage to get it to germinate and it grows into a plant, there is no reason why that plant should be any less healthy than one grown from a fresh seed.

Your Own Germination Test

If you have some seeds and you want to know if they are still good, one of the best ways to find out is to do your own germination test. To do this, take a few seeds and set them between a few layers of wet paper towel for several days to a week, then count the number of seeds that germinated and compute them as a percentage of the total number of seeds. A germination rate above 50% usually means the seeds are suitable for planting. Less than 50% means you will probably really struggle to get them to grow, and you should get fresh seeds if possible. A germination rate between 50-80% means you should probably sow the seeds closer together in your garden then thin them after they germinate.

Proper Storage

I’ve made a number of posts in the past on the proper way to store seeds, for example here.

In general, proper storage means in a dry place at a steady temperature, in paper or plastic envelopes or bags. The actual temperature in not too critical, but it’s better if it’s on the cool side. You should always protect your seeds from direct sunlight. The bottom of a closet is a good choice.

For longer term storage there are a number of options, like refrigerating or freezing the seeds. For this to be done properly the seeds must be completely dry and stored in a container such as a glass jar with a rubber seal. These storage options always involve some risk, and shouldn’t be used for short term storage. These storage options are rarely useful for purchased seeds with an unknown production date.

Properly freezing seeds will generally extend their shelf life 10 times over unfrozen seeds, so for example tomato seeds up to 100 years, pepper seeds up to 30 years and so on.

Real Seed Catalogue Order

Seed Order

I recently placed an order of seeds and tubers with the Real Seed Catalogue in the UK, and I was really impressed.

On the left side of the picture you can see my order receipt. Printed on this receipt (double sided to save paper) are both personalized seed saving and cooking instructions for each item I purchased.

Inserted into each plastic seed bag are very detailed planting instructions, together with common mistakes, problems and general advice. Far more than the usual planting date range, spacing and depth information you usually get.

Literally, every bit of useful information they could have sent me they did.  When is the last time you bought a packet of seeds and got cooking instructions?

Not to be missed was also the following on their receipt:

“This is a not-for-profit company limited by guarantee, so there are no shares, and therefore no shareholders to siphon off funds – instead, all spare income is invested back into our vegetable seed research and breeding work.”

So, while we all refer to them as a seed company, we need to keep in mind they are a little more than that.  I think Europe is very lucky to have a seed company like them.