Planting Out in the Heirloom Garden

This is a cross posting, also available at La Vida Locavore.  For my regular readers, please bear with the somewhat introductory nature.  Those of you who do regularly read this blog may want to check out some of the other posts on La Vida Locavore.

For me heirloom gardening is all about getting away from the mentality of growing things from a purchased packet of seeds. If you do grow plants from purchased seeds, you are always better off saving your own seeds if possible because with every generation they adapt to your garden, a process you can help along by being a little choosy with the plants you save seeds from.

Even better than starting with purchased seeds are those you can’t buy, and can only get for free or perhaps a small payment to cover shipping and handling costs. These might be plants growing wild somewhere, where someone has gone out and collected some seeds for you. Perhaps these are varieties someone has created in their own garden with amateur plant breeding techniques. You might spend the time to make contacts at academic institutions or seed banks, and find things in these collections or perhaps know someone who has already done this and can get some saved seeds from them. Even easier than saving seeds every year is to establish perennial plants in your garden, those that come back providing tasty things to eat each year.

If you’re interested in growing these sorts of plants, have a look at the blogger seed network with a number of people who will send plants and seeds most places in the world at little or no cost. The network currently has 24 people in 11 countries. Many people think these kinds of things cannot be sent into the US because of customs rules, but that isn’t always the case. Keep reading to see pictures and descriptions of a few of the plants I’m growing this year.

pinus_pinea

This is a Pinus Pinea tree, one of the most popular for growing pine nuts.  Mary who lives in Greece sent me some seeds she collected from trees growing on her property.  Any possible harvest from this is farther away than anything else I’m growing at the moment, and also one of my most uncertain.  The climate in my garden is probably too wet for this tree that likes a dry climate, however they do grow in other parts of the Netherlands.  I have read estimates ranging from 8-30 years for the first harvest.  In addition, these trees are self fertile, which means I have to have two of them to cross pollinate each other!  These will likely get quite large, so it’s not certain I will continue to have space for them.  One of the things I hope to get from this tree is a shady place to sit, something I’m lacking in the garden at the moment and perhaps can expect to get sooner than a harvest of pine nuts.  These trees are sometimes called umbrella pines, and grow up and out.

yacon_red

yacon_regular

These are two different yacón plants, both from my Belgian friend Frank.  This is a really interesting plant, one of the so called Lost Crops of the Incas.  I did a post with pictures of the tubers here.  This has the potential to become a very important crop in the future.  It’s more productive than potatoes in the same space, with each plant yielding about 10Kg in less than a square meter.  It’s well suited as a biofuel crop, because it has a high sugar content.  It also has a nice taste, very sweet, almost like a melon.  It’s not something to eat every day I think, but it’s nice to eat as a treat.

Especially if you live in the US, this is a good example of a plant not to purchase from a seed company.  It’s very hard to find for sale in the US, and for example Seeds of Change was selling it this year for $20 per plant plus mandatory express shipping costs.  On the other hand I sent a number of growing tubers to people in the US for free, as my cost was only that of a couple of postage stamps.  A couple of people reported they received them successfully and are growing them now.  I’ll almost certainly have more to send out in February, if you’re interested in giving it a try yourself.

good_king_henry2

This plant is called Good King Henry (it goes by other names as well), and was sent to me by Søren in Denmark.  It’s one of the limited number of edible plants that will tolerate some shade, and has leaves that can be eaten like spinach and shoots that can be eaten a bit like asparagus in the spring.  This by the way is my third try with seeds from Søren.  The first time, it got lost in the weeds.  The second time I grew it too close to Jerusalem Artichokes, which grew over the top of them.  If you ever get seeds or other plant materials from me, don’t be afraid to ask for more the following year if it doesn’t go well!  Unexpected things can always happen.

chryth_greens

This is edible chrysanthium given to me by Kate of Australia, during her trip through Europe, Singapore and the US last year.  I know you can eat the greens, and perhaps this is also the kind of plant you can harvest capers from?  I’m not sure about that.

cape_spitz

Cape Spitz cabbage.  This was sent to me by Mike in South Africa, and is an oxheart shaped cabbage.  This type of cabbage is very popular both in Holland as well as it’s former colonies, so I have a personal interest in seeing if there are major differences between what is grown locally and what is grown in SA.  As well as the straw I use as mulch, this plant is also protected with a net.

groundcherries

I’m growing a number of ground cherries this year.  Inspired in part because my friend Frank in Belgium who I mentioned above collected a number of varieties and gave me some of the seeds, but also a number of other people have given me varieties as well.  Laura in France and Ottawa Gardener in Canada have both given me varieties, as well as some I purchased from well known plant breeder Alan Kapuler’s seed company.

What are commonly referred to as ground cherries are actually a large number of different species of plants, with a reputation as being some of the best tasting solances (tomato, pepper, potato, eggplant and related plants).

sweetcorn

I’ve planted a variety of multi-colored sweet corn called Painted Hills, purchased from Alan Kapuler’s seed company.  Seeds of change has a good picture of it in their catalog.

kiwano

In my greenhouse I’m growing a fruit called Kiwano, from seeds sent to me by Riet who lives in Holland.

These are just a few plants I have growing now, and there’s lots to come!  Please watch my blog to hear more, and if you’re interested in growing these kinds of plants, don’t be afraid to contact me or others in the Seed Network linked to at the beginning of this post.

Understand that I get a lot of emails, and this year with all the attention being paid to the president’s garden is going to be really busy for me.  At the same time I love to hear from people of all skill levels with this kind of thing, and I always have 5 minutes to answer a question or point you to a source of a particular plant.  If you see a plant on my blog, I probably have seeds I can send or can point you to another source.  You can find contact information on the front page of my blog.

1 Year Old Asparagus

asparagus_1yearold

So I started asparagus last year from seed.  There’s not a lot of information about this on the Internet, and what’s there is often conflicting.  I thought I would do a post here about some of the things I’ve learned.

I decided to start my asparagus from seed, because crowns here tend to be overpriced and of unnamed varieties.  I wanted to grow OP varieties, so getting seeds seemed the best way to get started.  When you start asparagus from crowns, you need to wait 2 years before you get a normal harvest, and with seeds you have to wait an additional year.  I was prepared to wait 3 years for a normal harvest.

Asparagus likes rich ground, and I discovered last year I had problems with not enough nitrogen in my garden.  I decided to address this by planting beans as companion plants with the asparagus.  This may not have been the best decision, because in the first year the asparagus plants were very small and weak, and the beans grew over and crowded them.  Many of the asparagus plants didn’t survive, and this may have been part of the problem.

When I started this I was under the impression most of my asparagus plants would survive, and in any case I was expecting it to be black and white, either they would survive or not.  I planted 2 beds with 12 plants each, expecting to perhaps lose a couple of plants in each bed.  This is certainly not what happened.

What happened was different asparagus plants grew with different degrees of success, and quite a few simply died after the first year.  It’s not completely clear how many survived, but it’s certainly less than 50% and many that are still around don’t look healthy and strong.  A few of the plants are doing fine, like the one in the picture above.

Another one of the issues I’m aware of is there are male and female plants.  I’m quite happy to have a few female plants in my garden, because I would like to have seeds for future planting, but most people only want male plants as they produce better asparagus spears.  I’m under the impression when you buy crowns, they’ve usually been sexed and are always male.

I also started my seeds indoors.  I’m under the impression this wasn’t necessary and I didn’t really gain anything by doing it.

Lessons

Starting asparagus from seed is certainly possible, but it’s a little bit more trouble.

I suggest planting seeds with about 6in (15cm) spacing in rows 1ft (30cm) apart.  For the first year plan on growing crowns for transplant, so don’t worry too much about providing the perfect spot for the plants.  Plant at least 4-5 times as many plants as you expect to need crowns for.  You will want to be able to pick the best and strongest plants for transplanting, and will probably want to discard female plants.  You can direct seed in the garden, about 2 weeks before the last frost date in your area.  Germination rates can be low, so consider sowing more thickly and thinning out the plants later.

The following spring, transplant the crowns.  Soilman recently did a great video on this.

How to Plant a Modern Organic Garden

Okay, from the video in my post a few days ago we now know how to plant a Victory Garden, but how about the modern version?

The Technique

Make a list of what you think would be good to grow. Don’t worry if you’re not sure, this list will change over time. It’s important to have a place to start however.

Research crop rotations. In particular, when you begin you will probably organize your crops into four groups; Roots (carrots, beets, etc), Solancae (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, etc), Brassicas (cabbage family) and Other. There is possibly a fifth group, being perennials (plants that keep growing from one year to the next).

After researching crop rotations, go back to your list of what you want to grow and research how much space the plants need. Try to fit what you want to grow in each of their four (or five) groups, and plan roughly equal space for them in your garden according to a rotation schedule. This step can be very time consuming and frustrating, just try to do the best you can, and instead of being perfect commit yourself to improving it over time. Be sure to incorporate something that fixes nitrogen into your rotation plan.

Get the seeds. If you know of plant diseases in your area, look for resistant varieties. At the same time, if you don’t have a particular disease, getting a resistant variety won’t help and will limit your choices. Get to know your diseases and pests, and plan for them specifically. While there’s no reason you can’t grow commercial seeds, be sure to pick some OP/heirloom varieties so you can save seeds as discussed below. Be sure to check out the Bloggers Seed Network!

Make a garden layout plan. This too will probably change over time, so make the plan in a way changes can easily be incorporated. Also make a plan for when things get started, indoor or outdoors, and when they should be transplanted. Don’t forget to harden off your plants.

If possible, do a soil test. If this is not possible or desirable, inventory the weeds of the area, and see if they indicate problems with your soil. Make a plan for dealing with any problems you discover. If chemical fertilizer has been used recently, you will have special problems connected with this.

Be sure to make your own compost with your garden and other waste. Also look for locally obtained materials to use for mulch.

Collect your own rain water.  Water can be diverted from the roof of most structures into a barrel.  Home made systems can be made with recycled materials for almost no cost.  Purchased systems are also widely available.

Organize your garden into beds. These can be raised or not, with or without a border. The important thing to consider here is you should be able to easily reach all parts of the bed without having to step in them. This usually means they should not be wider than about 4-5 ft (1,5m), with access from both sides.

Don’t use chemical fertilizers, uncomposted manure or chemical pest controls. If you feel it’s necessary to use some fertilizer, try making your own like compost or green plant ‘teas’. If you want to buy a commercial product consider kelp or fish based products. Fertilizer of this nature is normally best applied directly on the leaves of the plants as needed.  Remember, the taste of fish can find it’s way into your vegetables, so use sparingly and not close to harvest time.

In particular in the case of plants in the cabbage family, be sure to research common insect and plant disease problems. It’s a good idea to do this with other plants as well. Be sure to ask around to other gardeners. In the case of the cabbage family you will likely need to pick caterpillars off by hand, keep the plants covered with a net or use a product called Bt. You may need to cover your carrots to protect them from the carrot fly. If you grow potatoes you should understand what blight looks like, and be prepared to promptly remove infected plants or their foliage. There are also some blight resistant varieties becoming available.

Be sure to save seeds from your OP varieties. By saving your own seeds, you create special varieties uniquely suited for your garden’s climate.

Extra for Experts

After establishing your garden, you may want to think about planning your garden so you have fresh food available for as much of the year as possible, as well as using season extending techniques like cold frames and greenhouses.

You may also wish to try cross pollinating some of your varieties, in order to try developing new ones. This can only be done with OP varieties.

Finally be sure to check out other organic bloggers and websites for growing techniques and plant ideas:

Daughter of the Soil
Fluffius Muppetus
In the Toad’s Garden
Mas Du Diable
MustardPlaster
Observer Organic Allotment Blog
Plan Be
The Vegetable Garden
Veggie Gardening Tips

There are many others! Be sure to check out my Blogroll.

Please let me know what I’m missing here!

Seed and Plant Sanctuary for Canada/Salt Spring Seeds

Several bloggers including me have been writing about their favorite seed sources for a little while now.  Even though I haven’t ordered anything from him in a while, because I’ve found alternative local sources, one of my favorite places over the years has been Dan Jason on Salt Spring Island, off the west coast of Canada.

Dan has two ways of requesting seeds, the first being a traditional online seed company Salt Spring Seeds.  Some of my longest held plants come from here including a few garlic varieties and the Egyptian Walking onion.

The other way of requesting seeds from Dan is through his plant charity Seed and Plant Sanctuary for Canada.  In this way you can become a member and gain access to some varieties not available to non-members.  If you are looking for a worthy organization to make a donation to, consider this.

With either way of ordering seeds, don’t be surprised if you get a personal email from Dan.  He likes to chat and get to know his customers, as well as let you know he isn’t a faceless corporation.  Dan has written a number of books where he discusses growing and cooking techniques, as well as seed saving and politics.  I’m pretty sure these can be found on the Salt Spring Seeds website or on Amazon, or ask Dan for details.  A few years ago, I did a review of one of them.

Especially if you live in Canada, Dan is someone to keep in mind when you are looking for seeds to grow.