Food Independence for Independence Day

Roger of KGI recently made a post on a campaign he started to encourage people to celebrate the upcoming Independence day in the US by featuring local foods.  As well as promoting the idea of eating locally, he also addresses the idea of food independence, or food sovereignty as it’s known outside of the US.  It’s a really important concept, and it’s important for everyone living everywhere on the planet.

It’s the idea you are able to grow your own food without inputs or outputs of any kind, and without depending on anyone else for anything.  Without needing to get into your SUV and drive to Walmart to buy lumber, large bales of peat, mulch, sacks of fertilizers and so on.  Without needing to buy seeds from a single source because you grow hybrid varieties produced by a single company.  Without needing to use tap water, because you collect rainwater from your roof.  Without needing to use landfill space, because you recycle all of your own garden waste.  Without using power tools that run on fossil fuels, pollute the air and generate greenhouse gasses.  Without needing money to pay for it all.

Of course few people manage to achieve all of these things simultaneously, but by thinking about these things, doing the best you can given your personal circumstances and continuing to work on and improve the way you garden, you are taking an important first step.

A useful way to think about this is the way you spend money on your garden.  Growing fruits and vegetables should be almost free.  You will need some hand tools, if your ground is acidic some lime and maybe some potting soil from time to time, but everything else comes down to recycling things from your own garden and growing methods.  In the short term other things may be needed, for example you may decide to purchase a greenhouse and a shed.  You may have some specific problems in your garden that need to be addressed, one of the most common is soil lacking something that can be identified with a soil test or other methods.  You may have drainage problems that need to be fixed, and so on.  There aren’t many problems that require treatments or inputs beyond a year or two, and you should be thinking about garden sovereignty after that time.

When you buy food from the supermarket, you immediately find yourself in the middle of a complex tangle of commercial interests and politics. It begins because few people know how to grow their own food today, and in part it’s because food companies have invested tremendous effort into making modern foods convenient and cheap.  It’s a vicious cycle that’s hard to break.  Growing your own food is something that takes time to learn, and this lack of knowledge is really a serious problem.

Nearly all varieties of fruits and vegetables are patented and produced by one of five seed and chemical companies worldwide.  Since these same companies also sell chemicals, and they make more money if they sell chemicals with their seeds, so they breed them specifically to need these chemicals.  We are all familiar with GM Round Up ready varieties, and this is one very obvious example as Monsanto sells both Round Up and the Round Up ready varieties of seed.  There are many, many much more insidious examples of this for example cucumbers susceptible to mildew diseases or insect pests that require chemicals.

When farmers buy commercial seeds to plant, they get a list of required chemicals and a schedule for applying them.  Agriculture by numbers, if you like.  If farmers don’t do this the seed companies won’t support them.  It’s like doing something that invalidates a consumer warranty, even if it has nothing to do with some unrelated problem that needs to be fixed.  Under these circumstances, you can be assured farmers will apply all the required chemicals even if they know they aren’t needed.

If you buy certified organic food, you are still buying these commercial varieties.  In this case, you pay for the patents on the varieties and the work that went into them being designed to need chemicals, the extra trouble the farmer has to go through to grow them without chemicals, finally the very cumbersome associated paperwork and regulations intended to put small farmers and food producers at a disadvantage.  It’s a silly way to buy your food.

If you buy meat, this tangle gets even more intense, because first the grains are grown like I described above, then the animals are raised following similar lines of logic.

This is what we call the Green Revolution.

It came about because during the depression of the 30s and the war years that followed, there were food shortages and they need to ensure food companies who invested in improved plant varieties and production methods could be assured of profits.  They invested in plant varieties, chemicals and methods that made them as much money as possible and there were no other reasons for what they did.  There’s no reason to believe, if they hadn’t instead invested in organic agriculture without chemical and energy inputs, productions yields would be any lower today than they are now.

When politicians talk about providing ‘high quality’ seeds to the developing world to fight hunger, they are lying.  It’s as simple as that.  Instead what they are talking about is forcing a system of debt, dependence and environmental damage on hungry people who are in desperate need of developing their own food sovereignty.

If you go to a garden center and buy a normal commercial packet of seeds, you immediately put yourself in the middle of this tangle of required chemicals and politics.  It’s not that it’s impossible to grow nice things from commercial seed packets, but you’re starting off at a disadvantage.

If you think along the lines of food sovereignty, and avoid commercial seeds, you’re assured chemicals will not be needed to grow your plants.  Otherwise the situation is less clear.

In order to be sure to avoid the usual commercial tangle, if you want to purchase non-commercial seeds, you should purchase them from a company that specialized in them.  The best thing would be if you can find a local company, that hopefully produces seeds most suitable for your local climate.  In any case, be sure to look specifically for a company that specializes in non-commercial seeds.  The links page on this blog lists a number of these companies.

If you grow non-commercial seeds, another advantage is being able to save and replant seeds from these plants.  Saving seeds is also a skill that’s been lost with our current generation and takes some time to learn.  Many people start reading about how complicated it is and are quickly discouraged.  It really doesn’t have to be difficult.  Roger’s post that I linked to at the top, discusses growing garlic, something that doesn’t take any special skills to save and replant.  Beans, peas and lettuce are nearly as easy.  Just grow the plants and save the seeds — that’s it.  Other plants can be more complicated but a little research is all that’s needed to learn how to do it.  You must however start with non-commercial seeds, or the plants you get after saving your seeds will not be the same as the original parent plants.

Once you make the decision to start saving your seeds, you have access to the wonderful world of seed exchanges.  These are fellow gardeners who also save their own seeds, and often have very special varieties of plants on offer.  While some of these gardeners are happy to provide their seeds to anyone and everyone, most really expect you to have the intention of saving and regrowing them, so it’s best to at least have the intention of doing this before getting involved in trading this way.  If you’re interested in offering or receiving non-commercial seeds, have a look at the Bloggers Seed Netork page.

Aim for food sovereignty.  Don’t add anything unnecessarily to your garden.  Get away from the mindset of being a farmer, and needing a box of this and a bottle of that.  Don’t give your money to the wrong companies.  Grow the right varieties.  Take care of our planet and your health, at the same time you grow fresh fruits and vegetables in your own garden.

Planting Out in the Heirloom Garden

This is a cross posting, also available at La Vida Locavore.  For my regular readers, please bear with the somewhat introductory nature.  Those of you who do regularly read this blog may want to check out some of the other posts on La Vida Locavore.

For me heirloom gardening is all about getting away from the mentality of growing things from a purchased packet of seeds. If you do grow plants from purchased seeds, you are always better off saving your own seeds if possible because with every generation they adapt to your garden, a process you can help along by being a little choosy with the plants you save seeds from.

Even better than starting with purchased seeds are those you can’t buy, and can only get for free or perhaps a small payment to cover shipping and handling costs. These might be plants growing wild somewhere, where someone has gone out and collected some seeds for you. Perhaps these are varieties someone has created in their own garden with amateur plant breeding techniques. You might spend the time to make contacts at academic institutions or seed banks, and find things in these collections or perhaps know someone who has already done this and can get some saved seeds from them. Even easier than saving seeds every year is to establish perennial plants in your garden, those that come back providing tasty things to eat each year.

If you’re interested in growing these sorts of plants, have a look at the blogger seed network with a number of people who will send plants and seeds most places in the world at little or no cost. The network currently has 24 people in 11 countries. Many people think these kinds of things cannot be sent into the US because of customs rules, but that isn’t always the case. Keep reading to see pictures and descriptions of a few of the plants I’m growing this year.

pinus_pinea

This is a Pinus Pinea tree, one of the most popular for growing pine nuts.  Mary who lives in Greece sent me some seeds she collected from trees growing on her property.  Any possible harvest from this is farther away than anything else I’m growing at the moment, and also one of my most uncertain.  The climate in my garden is probably too wet for this tree that likes a dry climate, however they do grow in other parts of the Netherlands.  I have read estimates ranging from 8-30 years for the first harvest.  In addition, these trees are self fertile, which means I have to have two of them to cross pollinate each other!  These will likely get quite large, so it’s not certain I will continue to have space for them.  One of the things I hope to get from this tree is a shady place to sit, something I’m lacking in the garden at the moment and perhaps can expect to get sooner than a harvest of pine nuts.  These trees are sometimes called umbrella pines, and grow up and out.

yacon_red

yacon_regular

These are two different yacón plants, both from my Belgian friend Frank.  This is a really interesting plant, one of the so called Lost Crops of the Incas.  I did a post with pictures of the tubers here.  This has the potential to become a very important crop in the future.  It’s more productive than potatoes in the same space, with each plant yielding about 10Kg in less than a square meter.  It’s well suited as a biofuel crop, because it has a high sugar content.  It also has a nice taste, very sweet, almost like a melon.  It’s not something to eat every day I think, but it’s nice to eat as a treat.

Especially if you live in the US, this is a good example of a plant not to purchase from a seed company.  It’s very hard to find for sale in the US, and for example Seeds of Change was selling it this year for $20 per plant plus mandatory express shipping costs.  On the other hand I sent a number of growing tubers to people in the US for free, as my cost was only that of a couple of postage stamps.  A couple of people reported they received them successfully and are growing them now.  I’ll almost certainly have more to send out in February, if you’re interested in giving it a try yourself.

good_king_henry2

This plant is called Good King Henry (it goes by other names as well), and was sent to me by Søren in Denmark.  It’s one of the limited number of edible plants that will tolerate some shade, and has leaves that can be eaten like spinach and shoots that can be eaten a bit like asparagus in the spring.  This by the way is my third try with seeds from Søren.  The first time, it got lost in the weeds.  The second time I grew it too close to Jerusalem Artichokes, which grew over the top of them.  If you ever get seeds or other plant materials from me, don’t be afraid to ask for more the following year if it doesn’t go well!  Unexpected things can always happen.

chryth_greens

This is edible chrysanthium given to me by Kate of Australia, during her trip through Europe, Singapore and the US last year.  I know you can eat the greens, and perhaps this is also the kind of plant you can harvest capers from?  I’m not sure about that.

cape_spitz

Cape Spitz cabbage.  This was sent to me by Mike in South Africa, and is an oxheart shaped cabbage.  This type of cabbage is very popular both in Holland as well as it’s former colonies, so I have a personal interest in seeing if there are major differences between what is grown locally and what is grown in SA.  As well as the straw I use as mulch, this plant is also protected with a net.

groundcherries

I’m growing a number of ground cherries this year.  Inspired in part because my friend Frank in Belgium who I mentioned above collected a number of varieties and gave me some of the seeds, but also a number of other people have given me varieties as well.  Laura in France and Ottawa Gardener in Canada have both given me varieties, as well as some I purchased from well known plant breeder Alan Kapuler’s seed company.

What are commonly referred to as ground cherries are actually a large number of different species of plants, with a reputation as being some of the best tasting solances (tomato, pepper, potato, eggplant and related plants).

sweetcorn

I’ve planted a variety of multi-colored sweet corn called Painted Hills, purchased from Alan Kapuler’s seed company.  Seeds of change has a good picture of it in their catalog.

kiwano

In my greenhouse I’m growing a fruit called Kiwano, from seeds sent to me by Riet who lives in Holland.

These are just a few plants I have growing now, and there’s lots to come!  Please watch my blog to hear more, and if you’re interested in growing these kinds of plants, don’t be afraid to contact me or others in the Seed Network linked to at the beginning of this post.

Understand that I get a lot of emails, and this year with all the attention being paid to the president’s garden is going to be really busy for me.  At the same time I love to hear from people of all skill levels with this kind of thing, and I always have 5 minutes to answer a question or point you to a source of a particular plant.  If you see a plant on my blog, I probably have seeds I can send or can point you to another source.  You can find contact information on the front page of my blog.

Goji Berries and Strawberries

goji_strawberry

It’s planting season in the garden again.  The last frost day here is normally 1 May, but we are in the middle of a very hot and dry spell and the idea of frost seems a distant one, so I am getting started a little early.  According to the weather people here this is the hottest April for the last 110 years, except for 2007 which was hotter.  The month isn’t over yet, so who knows, we may yet break the 2007 record.

I’m not the only garden blogger growing goji-/wolfberries this year!  I thought I was being clever by buying some goji berries at the local market and planting the seeds, but I see quite a number of people had the same idea.

Emma of Fluffius Muppetus, who has had some goji plants for a year now, suggested planting them with an understory of strawberries.  As luck had it I was planning to plant some strawberries this year anyway!

I’ve decided to commit one of my raised beds to the project.  Emma also suggested planting them in an out of the way spot, because the plants are a bit thorny and sharp, so I’ve allocated my most out of the way bed to the task.

For years now I’ve been growing white Alpine strawberries, and really enjoying them.  Imagine how happy I was to run across a plant breeder working with them!  Alan recently sent me some seeds of his Jeffersonian Alpine Strawberry mix.  As I understand it, it’s a mix of yellow and white Alpine strawberry varieties (both genetic and simple seed mix), with some selection already done for large berries.  The name comes about because Thomas Jefferson who also grew and enjoyed Alpine strawberries apparently concluded they would never be profitable to grow and sell.  Alan sells them on his farm, and is looking to develop them commercially.

I’m really looking forward to doing some selection on these in my own garden!

How to Plant a Modern Organic Garden

Okay, from the video in my post a few days ago we now know how to plant a Victory Garden, but how about the modern version?

The Technique

Make a list of what you think would be good to grow. Don’t worry if you’re not sure, this list will change over time. It’s important to have a place to start however.

Research crop rotations. In particular, when you begin you will probably organize your crops into four groups; Roots (carrots, beets, etc), Solancae (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, etc), Brassicas (cabbage family) and Other. There is possibly a fifth group, being perennials (plants that keep growing from one year to the next).

After researching crop rotations, go back to your list of what you want to grow and research how much space the plants need. Try to fit what you want to grow in each of their four (or five) groups, and plan roughly equal space for them in your garden according to a rotation schedule. This step can be very time consuming and frustrating, just try to do the best you can, and instead of being perfect commit yourself to improving it over time. Be sure to incorporate something that fixes nitrogen into your rotation plan.

Get the seeds. If you know of plant diseases in your area, look for resistant varieties. At the same time, if you don’t have a particular disease, getting a resistant variety won’t help and will limit your choices. Get to know your diseases and pests, and plan for them specifically. While there’s no reason you can’t grow commercial seeds, be sure to pick some OP/heirloom varieties so you can save seeds as discussed below. Be sure to check out the Bloggers Seed Network!

Make a garden layout plan. This too will probably change over time, so make the plan in a way changes can easily be incorporated. Also make a plan for when things get started, indoor or outdoors, and when they should be transplanted. Don’t forget to harden off your plants.

If possible, do a soil test. If this is not possible or desirable, inventory the weeds of the area, and see if they indicate problems with your soil. Make a plan for dealing with any problems you discover. If chemical fertilizer has been used recently, you will have special problems connected with this.

Be sure to make your own compost with your garden and other waste. Also look for locally obtained materials to use for mulch.

Collect your own rain water.  Water can be diverted from the roof of most structures into a barrel.  Home made systems can be made with recycled materials for almost no cost.  Purchased systems are also widely available.

Organize your garden into beds. These can be raised or not, with or without a border. The important thing to consider here is you should be able to easily reach all parts of the bed without having to step in them. This usually means they should not be wider than about 4-5 ft (1,5m), with access from both sides.

Don’t use chemical fertilizers, uncomposted manure or chemical pest controls. If you feel it’s necessary to use some fertilizer, try making your own like compost or green plant ‘teas’. If you want to buy a commercial product consider kelp or fish based products. Fertilizer of this nature is normally best applied directly on the leaves of the plants as needed.  Remember, the taste of fish can find it’s way into your vegetables, so use sparingly and not close to harvest time.

In particular in the case of plants in the cabbage family, be sure to research common insect and plant disease problems. It’s a good idea to do this with other plants as well. Be sure to ask around to other gardeners. In the case of the cabbage family you will likely need to pick caterpillars off by hand, keep the plants covered with a net or use a product called Bt. You may need to cover your carrots to protect them from the carrot fly. If you grow potatoes you should understand what blight looks like, and be prepared to promptly remove infected plants or their foliage. There are also some blight resistant varieties becoming available.

Be sure to save seeds from your OP varieties. By saving your own seeds, you create special varieties uniquely suited for your garden’s climate.

Extra for Experts

After establishing your garden, you may want to think about planning your garden so you have fresh food available for as much of the year as possible, as well as using season extending techniques like cold frames and greenhouses.

You may also wish to try cross pollinating some of your varieties, in order to try developing new ones. This can only be done with OP varieties.

Finally be sure to check out other organic bloggers and websites for growing techniques and plant ideas:

Daughter of the Soil
Fluffius Muppetus
In the Toad’s Garden
Mas Du Diable
MustardPlaster
Observer Organic Allotment Blog
Plan Be
The Vegetable Garden
Veggie Gardening Tips

There are many others! Be sure to check out my Blogroll.

Please let me know what I’m missing here!

Seed Network Update February 2009

New Members

There are a couple of very important new members for the seed network this month.

Brown Envelope Seeds of Ireland joins the list.  While a couple of smaller seed companies have already joined, this is probably the largest.  A special note is they are particularly interested in trades.  If you have something special that could turn into a product a seed company might offer, I think they would love to hear from you!

They have a new blog as well: Brown Envelope Seeds Blog.

A Blog Called Fuggles also joined.  She has a great list of beans, peas, tomatoes and peppers.

Frank in Belgium, with his website called The Vegetable Garden is also offering his seeds as part of the network.  I posted recently about his new website and amazing collection of plants.

Making Requests or Joining

You don’t need to be a member of the seed network to request seeds, just contact the people directly by following the links near the bottom of the Seed Network page.

The seed network is open to anyone who wishes to share their open-pollinated, or self-made hybrid seeds.  See the Seed Network page linked to above or from the front page of this blog for details.  The most important things to keep in mind are seeds offered may not include commercial F1 hybrids, and if you do charge for your seeds it should be a small amount of money.  There’s no preset maximum cost, but you should be thinking along the lines of a few dollars per variety unless there are special reasons why it should be more.  Several people in the Seed Network offer their seeds for free.

You do not need a blog to offer seeds in this network.  If you have another place on the Internet to publish a list of seeds, just send me a link and I will include it in the list.  If you don’t have a place on the Internet to do this, just send me your seed list in an email and I’ll post it here.

Seed companies are particularly encouraged to join!  Understand however that you will be offering your seeds along side people offering free seeds, and in addition you should read this page explaining some of the background and reasons for starting the seed network.

If you have any questions please contact me!