New Dutch Food Labelling

Food labelling has always been a contentious issue here in the Netherlands.  To be quite honest I’m not current on all the arguments or discussions, but I do know new labels have appeared on our food here in the last several months.  In the past I’ve heard things off and on about how food manufactures didn’t want a ‘stop light’ system of labelling, because they didn’t want any food clearly labelled as ‘unhealthy’.  Supposedly food manufacturers were to be absolutely forbidden from making even indirect health claims about their products.  Apparently as well as in the Netherlands there have been disputes between different countries as well.

I also don’t see labelling on all foods, so I’m not sure where it’s mandatory or not.  Anyone reading this in other European countries see the same labelling where you are?  Does anyone know if we have a standard system yet or not?

As far as I can tell when I look at our new food labels is the food manufactures must have totally won the fight.

The reality of course is these labels are not so much about providing consumer information as they are to teach us to eat more processed foods.  Food companies in North America have for decades been making huge profits by teaching people about the different ingredients in food; salt, fat, sugar, oils, protein, etc.  By teaching us some are better and some are unhealthy, they make consumers go crazy buying foods without some things, and with extra other things added.  Even if there are no explicit health claims on the packages, there are public information campaigns teaching us what and what not to eat.

I’m starting to see that more and more in mass media here, for example on the BBC.  I have ad blocking software on my browser, so display ads don’t appear, but increasingly the BBC is running ‘infomercials’, about some new study somewhere that says we should eat more or less of some ingredient that’s commonly found in processed foods, or about how we are supposed to drink more or less alcohol.

On the subject of alcohol consumption there was some controversy recently because the government apparently was citing a study which gave safe alcohol on a weekly basis, but taking the numbers, dividing them by 7, and calling them a safe daily consumption.  This was obviously flawed math on the part of the government.

They are very much trying to start the same advertising campaigns and processed food promotions here that led to the obesity problems of North America.

For the record Steph and I are vegetarian, emphasize fresh and local foods over processed ones, buy most of our food from neighborhood organic markets and cook nearly all of our own meals.  In particular, we make it a point of sitting down and eating at least one meal together every day.

When you eat meals like this it’s very easy to make a mockery of nearly all dietary advice.  For example, the latest advice making the rounds here is no one should eat more than 6g or about 1 tsp of salt every day.  There’s no way Steph and I come anywhere near that on any kind of regular basis.  Even adding up all the salt we put on our food at the table, the salt in our bread and cheese and the salt we cook with.  We occasionally buy other processed foods besides bread and cheese, and even taking into account what these contain, we are still no where close.  It’s possible on the odd day we go over a little bit, but I do not consider this any risk to our health.

There is simply no reason for Steph and I to count the salt in all of our foods, or cut down or anything else, unless we want to give ourselves an eating disorder.  While there may be some reason to believe eating too much salt is unhealthy, although I can’t confirm this, there is no credible evidence to suggest if you are not eating too much salt that eating less is any healthier for you.  In particular there’s no evidence the low salt crazes America has gone through over the years have improved anyone’s health.

There’s a similar argument to be made for calories, protein, fat, oils and everything else that’s supposed to be either good or bad for you.  If you eat a varied diet, that doesn’t have too much meat or processed foods, the chances are you meet every credible nutritional guideline ever published without trying.

What are we talking about here?

The picture above is from a bag of ribbled potato chips (crisps).  It’s a 200g bag, or a little less than a half pound, in my opinion what a typical consumer would eat over a day or two.  A teenager could probably polish it off in an hour.  In any case, it’s packaged in the size consumers buy and will mostly be eaten by 1 or 2 people within a short period of time, so it’s not really sensible to talk about the food value of anything but the entire bag and any talk of ‘servings’ is pretty much nonsense.

There are many people who would like to get into an argument over how unhealthy it is to eat a bag of chips like this.  It’s an unbelievably emotional subject for many people.  I mean, just look at it — it’s a bag of potato chips!  Right?  What junk!  Calories!  Fat!  Who can justify eating something like that?  People on government benefits shouldn’t be allowed to buy food like this — right?  To all people like this, all I can say is get over it.

It’s too bad it isn’t easier to buy a higher quality product at a comparable price, in particular potato farmers use a lot of chemicals and potatoes themselves contain a lot of residues.  This and the fact they are made in bulk without any sort of quality standards.  Otherwise the ingredients from the label above are:  Potatoes, Sunflower Oil and Salt.  It’s still a processed food, and there are always problems with processed foods, but it’s a lot better than many alternatives.  For many centuries before WWII and the Irish Potato Famine, many people lived primarily on these sorts of food ingredients.  While I wouldn’t suggest anyone should live only on potato chips, you could do a lot worse.

One of the issues with standard potato chips like these is they are one of the cheapest food alternatives, and the food manufactures want you to buy more expensive foods, and want everyone to think there is something somehow wrong with a food that’s so cheap.

What’s on the Label?

I’m not going to translate every word on the label, but going to Google then selecting Language Tools you can find a translator.

On the bottom is what everyone is suppose to pay the most attention to, from left to right:

Calories:  139  —  7%

Sugars:  0.1g — <1%

Fat: 8.8g — 13%

Saturated Fat:  0.8g — 4%

Sodium: 0.138g — 6%

These are all for a 25g serving, and since the bag is 200g, you have to multiply all these numbers by 8.  For your convenience:

Calories: 1112 — 56%

Sugars: 0.8g

Fat: 70.4g — 104%

Saturated Fat: 6.4g — 32%

Sodium: 1.104g — 48%

The percentage figures are GDA or ‘Guideline Daily Amount’.  Whatever this means.  Maximum or minimum?  The package doesn’t say.

So what have we learned here?  Is it that when we eat an entire bag of potato chips every day, this alone will put our fat intake 4% over the limit?  What happens if we eat two bags a week, can we average out these numbers?  Of course we are all focused on that 104% figure, just what exactly are the health consequences of going 4% over the limit?

The fact of the matter is there is no useful information here.  It’s not possible to draw any conclusions about how healthy this product is for you, except emotional conclusions.

These figures are solely so consumers have a way of choosing processed foods they eat, and so they think some are healthier than others, without the manufactures making any explicit health claims.

Beginning with Organic Gardening

Julie just left this comment on another post, and since the answers to her questions are kind of long I thought I would make a post out of it and hope others would add their comments too!

hi, i was just wondering if anyone has any information about specific brands of non-gmo seeds sold in canada? also, i was wondering if a product is called “organic” but does not have a certified organic label, can i trust that it is in fact organic? One more thing, im a complete novice, so bear with me, do i have to buy organic soil to grow an organic garden? and if so, any credible canadian brands?

Thanks Julie!  Someone just asked me the other day to write more about gardening.

I write new posts like this every year around this time, because they are hard to find again in a blog where things scroll off the front page after a few days.  The gardening world is full of people with different opinions and perspectives on gardening and these are of course my own and those who choose to leave comments here.  You shouldn’t be afraid to look elsewhere if you don’t like the answers here.  In particular, I can’t offer a lot of advice about Canadian brands because I live in the Netherlands, but maybe others can.

GMOs

First of all, if GMOs are your concern, you are unlikely to find any GMO garden seeds, or even GMO contaminated seeds on the market.  GMO crops are mostly commodity crops like corn, soy and canola (rape), and these can’t contaminate vegetables most commonly grown in home gardens.  Also, if you are growing known varieties, for example heritage or heirloom varieties, there can’t only be tiny bits of contamination, it doesn’t work that way.  In order for these plants to be contaminated with GMOs, there has to be a crossing between two plants (a GMO and non-GMO plant) and this would result in a 50/50 mix of genes, giving you a totally different plant.

Occasionally GMO varieties are specifically offered for sale to home gardeners, but this is very rare.  GMO seeds are mostly sold to farmers.  You don’t need to worry about being fooled, because these seeds are very expensive and the companies who offer them expect you to not only pay a lot extra for them, but generally also sign written agreements concerning their use.

As long as you aren’t growing commodity type crops where GMO varieties are already being sold, you grow known varieties like heirloom or heritage ones, you don’t intentionally buy GMO seeds and you don’t eat any wildly unexpected results from your garden, you can’t possibly be eating any GMOs from your garden.

Organic

There’s a very important difference between (certified) organic seeds, and seeds grown for an organic gardener like yourself.  (Certified) organic seeds are grown without chemicals and pesticides and certified GMO-free (even though as I explained above these probably wouldn’t contain GMOs anyway).  On the other hand, heritage/heirloom seeds were bred at a time when chemicals and large scale farms didn’t exist or weren’t as widely used as they are today, and so are much better suited for an organic garden like yours.

My suggestion would be to choose heritage or heirloom varieties over certified organic.  I’ve written a lot about this before, and I’ll link to some of these posts in a minute, but the best way to choose a seed company is by picking one that doesn’t sell anything but heirloom or heritage seeds!  Make sure when you look at the seed listings of a company you are considering buying seeds from they don’t offer any seeds labelled as F1 or hybrid.  It’s not that there’s anything automatically wrong with F1 hybrid seeds, but companies that sell them often have misleading marketing intended to discourage you from buying good quality heirloom varieties, and so this is a good way to choose a seed company.  Some excellent Canadian seed companies that fall into this category are:

Annapolis Valley Heritage Seeds
Salt Spring Seeds
Terra Edibles
Stellar Seeds
Sunshine Farm Seeds
Hope Seeds

It’s worth adding that I’m pretty sure all of these companies grow their seeds without chemicals and fertilizers anyway.  Heirloom/heritage seeds don’t require many chemicals, and most companies like these don’t bother spending the money on them and it would be against their principles anyway.  If they say their seeds are grown organically, I would trust them to be telling the truth. Many small companies like these can’t afford the cost of being certified organic, but that doesn’t mean their seeds are grown any differently.

Here are a few of the posts I’ve written in the past on this topic:

How to Buy Heirloom/OP Seeds
Certified Organic Can Be Bad for Small and Local

The reality is many of the best gardening seeds can be had for free, or just the cost of postage and handling.  I have a list of people all over the world, including some in Canada, who re-save their garden seeds and send them to others:

Blogger Seed Network

While you may not want to start gardening with only seeds from other’s gardens, I would really suggest planting at least 1 or 2 varieties you get this way each year.

I have a lot of information elsewhere on this blog about saving your own seeds, if you are ever interested in that, but this is probably a topic for another post.  If you search around with Google or the search box here, you will probably easily find it.

Planting Soil

Okay, I’ve written lots about this before too.  There’s lots of controversy in potting soil.

To try to give a quick answer to your question, potting soil is nearly always made from peat or a peat alternative, mixed with a few cents of chemical fertilizer, then put in fancy packaging with the price marked up 500%.  By it’s nature it’s not organic, nor can it easily be made organic.  Even if it’s called ‘organic’ or ‘natural’, you shouldn’t believe it!

The fertilizer is necessary, because most plants won’t grow without any nutrients in the ground.

The main problem is commercial potting soil is sterile and weed free.  When you start seedlings indoors, this is important because micro-organisms present in organic fertilizer alternatives like compost will often kill small seedlings.  Even if you buy organic potting soil that’s made with something like compost as the fertilizer, it may not be sterile and it may kill small plants.

You can make your own organic potting soil by mixing peat moss in equal amount with home made compost sterilized in the oven at 400F (200C) for 30 minutes.  The peat doesn’t have to be sterilized, only the compost.  It’s also possible to use bleach to sterilize the compost. I can tell you from experience that cooking compost doesn’t smell very good…

Most people don’t go to this trouble, or the expense of buying organic commercial potting soil, and just accept this is the one non-organic part of their garden.  This is what I do.  I buy normal potting soil when I have to, but otherwise I’m a completely organic gardener.

Okay, I hope I’ve answered your questions, but you probably have a lot more now…  I hope this helped.

Betty’s Restaurant Amsterdam

This is one of the few vegetarian restaurants Steph and I had never been to before, so we decided to give it a try a few nights ago.  It was a really pleasant surprise, so I thought I would write a short review here.

Be sure to call first for a reservation.  They often fill up, sometimes a week or more in advance.  It’s a small place with limited capacity, and they offer very personal service.

Also, don’t plan dinner too late, because while there’s nothing wrong with the service, it all takes a long time.  Our dinner took a little more than 2 hours.

I’m not sure who Betty is.  The restaurant run by a very friendly gentleman, and one of the high points of the meal was the time he took to explain everything we were eating.

I have to say that we spoke to him in Dutch and got a far better explanation than the table next to us where he spoke English.  While his English was okay, if at all possible you should go with someone who speaks Dutch who can translate.  His English was a dramatic simplification of his Dutch.  If you’re stuck with English, be sure to press him for a fuller explanation and don’t let him get away with the quick summary.

For example, we had soup made from celeriac or celery root.  He explained this to us in Dutch, but told the English speaking table it was celery, which was not completely true.

In fact he’s proud of the food he serves, likes to talk about it, and responded well to the questions I had.  Don’t be afraid to point to things on the plate and ask questions.

Regional and Organic

You don’t choose your meal from a menu, but rather they have a daily set menu.  You can choose if you just want a main course, or if you want a starter and/or dessert in addition.  All of their food is organic and vegetarian, and can generally be made vegan on request.  Our meal was vaguely European, but mostly made of local seasonal vegetables with some Mediterranean foods as well.

I have read some reviews on the Internet where they’ve apparently served some Mexican food, but I think mostly they offer European and northern European foods.

The quality of the ingredients was very high, and it was cooked to a very high standard.  Both these things are almost unheard of in Amsterdam.

Different parts of the meal had different themes, for example one dish was made of all things bitter tasting.  Other dishes emphasized other flavors.  There were so many different dishes, that if you didn’t care for 1 or 2 of them, there was lots of other things to eat.  Dinner was very filling, and we were served plenty to eat.

Unusual Spices

I’m not sure if this is a regular feature in the restaurant, but one of the important parts of our meal were some very special spices.

If they had just been added to our meal we probably wouldn’t have noticed them.  So what he did was come to our table with various bottles of spices, blended in France by someone who specializes in this, and let us smell them first.  He then explained what each one contained, then added it to our food.  They were really fresh and interesting tasting.  Some were a little unusual, but mostly they were relatively ordinary spices blended in a creative and unexpected way.

Organic Wine

I’m used to organic wine sort of being what it is.  Usually nice, but in general lacking anything interesting.  We had some wine with our meal, and it was really very good.  This too came with an explanation, and it was possible to pick out all the flavors our waiter identified in advance.

Dessert

Dessert was well worth having.  It was hand made with high quality ingredients.

Sticker Shock

Be prepared to pay for the quality of food received.  For the 2 of us, with starters, main course and desserts, together with drinks and tip, our bill was nearly €100 or about US$140.  This is about as much as I have ever paid in a restaurant in Amsterdam, and I did find it a little steep.

I’m glad we went, and I think we’ll go back again.  If you’re looking for a vegetarian foodie experience in Amsterdam, it’s the only real place to go.

Het Marlanner Kaashuis

Friends of ours, Leen and Lucie van Zelderen, own a cheese farm in Friesland.  After spending years intending to ask for a tour, but never seeming to be in the right place at the right time with enough spare time, we finally made the trip up a few weeks ago.  Steph and I really had a great time, and some friends from Amsterdam we took up with us also enjoyed themselves.  It was a very bright and cold December day.

Leen is here in front of the vat where he makes the cheese.  Milk is pumped into the vat, then he adds rennet which coagulates the milk into curds and whey.  The curds are then cut into small pieces, or cottage cheese.  This is then put into a cheese press and pressed into a rounds of cheese.

Leen and Lucie don’t make ordinary cheese, but rather have a philosophy of making the most natural product possible, in small hand made batches, with the highest possible respect for the health and well-being of the animals.  The cheeses are certified organic and biodynamic, and his cows are completely ‘grass’ fed off his own land.  I put grass in quotes, because in fact they are very proud of the biodiversity of grasses and other wild plants their cows eat, as many as 75 different plant species.

The tour lasted several hours, and I didn’t take notes.  I’ve probably forgotten a few things, but I’ll try to summarize some of the important things here.

One of the things important in commercial cheese is uniformity.  If you are a consumer in the US for example, and you buy Dutch cheese, it has to look and taste exactly the same as the last time you bought it, as well as the next time you buy it.  Farmers add a number of different things to their cheese to ensure this, for example saltpeter as a purifying agent to kill any bacteria spores that may be present and change the flavor, or coloring necessary in the winter because cheese is whiter then.

Leen explained that they don’t make blue cheese, because if they did the bacteria spores would go everywhere, and everything would be blue.

Leen and Lucie don’t add anything to their cheese, and are proud that it tastes different from other Dutch or Fries cheeses, and that it tastes and looks different from one season to the next.  In fact over the last few years that I’ve been eating the cheese, I don’t think it’s ever tasted exactly the same twice.

Leen spent quite a bit of time explaining the difficult relationship he has with the Dutch food safety inspectors.  He’s inspected by different departments multiple times per week!  Everything from the shape of the tiles on his wall, to the procedures he follows, are all inspected and laid out for him.  He negotiates with them things like heating the milk to a certain temperature instead of adding a sterilizing agent.  The biggest problem they face with these health inspections is they are all intended to be applied to large commercial operations, and no one gives any thought to people like them when they implement new rules and procedures.

In the picture above Leen is demonstrating the containers he presses the cheese in.  The wooden container on the table was used by his great-grandmother for making cheese in, but isn’t legal anymore.  The health inspectors would prefer he used stainless steel, but he uses the plastic ones he’s demonstrating.

If the wooden one gets scratched, it’s self healing.  The wood will swell and fill the gap, or perhaps it needs to be lightly sanded.  If the plastic ones get scratched, they can’t be repaired.  Scratches in the plastic are a problem, because they can’t be properly cleaned.  So what’s the advice of the health inspectors?  Throw away the scratched containers and buy new ones.  It’s like forcing him to be a consumer, and buy plastic crap from China, instead of locally available materials, possibly homemade, that can be used indefinitely.

Above is the full view of the cheese press they use.  With the system of levers and weights, he can adjust the pressure applied to the various cheeses.

This is their brining vat, where the cheeses are soaked in salt water in order to remove the last traces of whey and impregnate the cheese with salt which are both important for preservation.

These are the various cheeses maturing in their storage room.  Leen explained the importance of wooden planks.  They act as a sort of moisture regulator and are breathable.  It doesn’t matter what kind of wood is used as long as it’s wood.  A material like plastic would promote mold.  I’ve forgotten now what the acceptable range is, but Leen explained the importance of temperature.  Too warm, and the cheese will spoil.  Too cold, and the cheese won’t mature.

It’s part of the normal process of maturing that the cheese loses moisture, and you can see a number of the rounds are a little caved in at the top because of this.  It’s also possible some bacteria will cause bubbles to form in the cheese, like how Swiss cheese is made, in which case the cheese rounds will swell.  Often there is a sort of happy medium between the two.  If a cheese round swells too much and develops too many holes, it will dry out faster and has to be eaten soon before it goes bad.

These racks hold the cheeses with herbs added.

Here Leen demonstrated the two extremes in cheese maturation, one dried out with few holes, and the other with lots of holes and air.  Except for one developing holes and the other not, these are identical rounds of cheese.

The Boys and Girls

After touring the cheese workshop, we had a walk around the barn.  Leen and Lucie now have 20 cows and steers.

Leen spent some time explaining how important he felt it was to have breeding steers on his farm.  This is not the usual way anymore, as it’s much more economical to purchase semen and artificially inseminate the cows.  The average life span of the steers on his farm is about 3 years, after which they are sent to the abattoir.  Below are the steers, sitting down and taking a break.  Between the cows and steers, you can see who does all the work on this farm!

The picture below are the cows, all lined up and full of milk.

I asked about the specific breeds they have, and the answer was they are just mutts.  In the picture above you can pick out quite a few breeds if you know what you’re looking for…  You can see their names are written on the wooden beam above them.

One of the things Leen explained was the importance of the horns.  All cows have horns, and most farmers remove them because then the cows need less barn space.  If you leave the horns on, the cows turn their heads from time to time and will hit one another.  In general the horns are no problem, other than requiring a little extra space.

Leen feels very strongly that giving the cows more space is the best option, and in the picture above you can see all of his cows still have their horns.

Leen explained cow horns are not unlike a human finger.  They have a coating of dead hard skin, not unlike a human finger nail.  On the inside they are soft, living and very sensitive tissue.  Cutting off a cow’s horn is not unlike cutting off a persons finger, and it’s not healthy for the cow.  Leen feels very strongly that his cows are happier and healthier with their horns, and with the extra space they get in the barn.

While the other cows and steers had their own places and were chained, this calf was following us around during the tour.  I’m not sure how old he was, but not very I guess.

Leen spent more time while we were in the barn explaining why the biodiversity in the plants the cows ate was so important.  He referred to the cows as their own ‘pharmacists’ (apothekers) , which is actually a term that loses something in translation from Dutch.  In olden times here pharmacists often offered herbal remedies as well as more potent drugs, and in fact that’s still something of a tradition even now.  By calling his cows pharmacists, he meant it more in the sense of specialists in herbal remedies.

He says the cows are actually very choosy in what they eat, and they seek out plants according to their nutritional needs.  If the cows are sick, they will seek out plants that can heal them.  Leen says he actually spends a lot of time on the fence watching his cows eat, and thinking about the logic involved.  There’s a lot more to it than just eating grass!

Above is Leen demonstrating the milking machine.  He milks his cows twice a day.  He says the more often you milk them, in principle the more milk you get, but he finds twice a day works best for him.

I have forgotten the numbers, but Leen explained in modern commercial dairies farmers prefer breeds of cows that peak early in their milk production.  In this way, they can keep these cows for just a few years before slaughtering them and it’s more efficient, then cows that have a more uniform milk production over their lifetime.  Leen and Lucie on the other hand prefer cows that have a more uniform milk production, and so the average age of their cows are much older than most commercial dairies.  Looking at their lifespan as a whole, Leen and Lucie’s cows give more milk on average.

Everything else aside, their cheese is really delicious.  If you are ever in the neighborhood of Dokkum, or one of the places in Friesland they have a farmers market stand (call them for information), be sure to buy some and give it a try!

Just Fair Market – Dublin

Just Fair Market Fairly Fantastic Fare

I came across this farmers market in Dublin a little while ago, and I keep meaning to mention it here.  I noticed them because they link here, so I can see it in my log files.

Besides featuring local Irish farmers and independent food shops, here are a couple of things that make this market look really interesting:

  • Every weekend one or more stands offers cooking lessons.
  • There’s an information point, offering advice on what’s good to buy and why.

This really goes beyond what I normally see at farmers markets, and I think it’s neat.  It shows a unique commitment of engagement with their customers.

If you’re in Dublin, I hope you’ll pay them a visit.  Then please come back here and leave a comment telling us what you think!