Real Seeds from Garlic Plants

I’ve posted a few times about the production of garlic seeds but haven’t gone into a lot of depth. Honestly, I don’t know very much, but I hope to learn more this year.

The basic idea is this. Garlic normally reproduces asexually, either through root divisions in the form of cloves that can be replanted to grow more bulbs, or bulbils that form on the tops of some garlic varieties. Garlic does not normally produce true flowers that can cross pollinate with neighboring plants. Perhaps at one time in it’s evolution it did reproduce sexually, and it’s been observed that sometimes when you remove the bulbils as they are developing it can cause the plant to try to reproduce sexually. Some people have had success making garlic seed in this way.

This is reported to be a very difficult and tedious process.

Some people reading this know that shallot seeds have become available in the last few years, something that likely came about from a similar process.

I’ve been chatting informally via email with someone named Avram who lives in Oregon and has been doing this for some years now.   He has sent me a lot of interesting information.

Recently Avram gave me permission to go through our private emails, and cut and paste some of the more relevant parts into an Internet post. That’s the purpose of this post.

Some things like Avram’s personal notes or contacts, or some research papers he forwarded me I’m not going to publish on the Internet. I’m also going to replace some people’s names with initials to protect their privacy. If you want some of these things, or you want to get in touch with Avram, please send me an email and let me know. If you send me an email and tell me you want to get in touch with Avram, I’ll forward your email to him and he will get in touch with you if he wants.

Text in bold are excerpts of email I sent to Avram.

Block quoted text are excerpts of email Avram sent to me.

Hi Patrick. JG forwarded your e-mail to me. You had asked him primarily about rust in garlic. On that i know little as i haven’t experienced it. Here’s a couple of sites that deal with disease:

http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/plant_searchResults.cfm?search_str=garlic&host_alpha=Select&host_text=garlic&submit=++Go%21++

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.onion-and-garlic.html

I have grown garlic for about 13 years and have grown around 150 supposed cultivars. Currently i have 80 accessions. I just got some land i can actually farm on so instead of growing around 400 lbs. i’ll hopefully grow over 2000.

This is worth reading: http://www.ars.usda.gov/Research/docs.htm?docid=5232

It is very helpful to read the Volk study: http://www.garlicseedfoundation.info/allium_sativum_DNA.htm If you can get through the academic language, this study is important to understanding garlic.

In the classification system popular in the States, there are 10 categories. Gatersleben uses a different system. The Volk study looks at genetics. I find that after 3-5 years of adaptation that variation in some categories is next to nil. The Volk found that there was a lot of duplication both within the USDA collection and in two major garlic seed (clone) companies: Filaree and The Garlic Store. The SSE collection is filled with duplicates!

In terms of true seed, most garlic is male infertile. Fertility is often indicated by the presence of purple anthers, though there are exceptions. The USDA has done seed production viability studies; however i’ve had very good results on varieties they have not and vice versa. Seed production tends not to be consistent on varieties one year
to the next. Let me know if you’re interested in doing it. I can tell you that is is very time consuming, that breeding new varieties will take years and that professionals have already produced millions of seeds and grown out out numerous generations of progeny. My first year i got a few seeds, none germinated. The next, i plucked bulbils from over 80 inflorescences, got 37 seeds and only one germinated. This last
year i plucked from 132, got 371 seeds and i have started them yet. My one seedling is very strange. It’s in a pot and still growing….

In my SSE listing i had asked if anyone was working on this in hopes of dialog with anyone else but have had no response. Other than the USDA and the Israelis, i don’t know of anyone still working on this. I think agribusiness growers gave up as they found it not cost effective for seed to bulb to seed crop production, especially with cheap imports from China.

A short time ago, you left a comment here on my blog, but didn’t leave
an email address so I didn’t know how to get in touch with you:

http://bifurcatedcarrots.eu/?p=219#comments

Hi Patrick. Funny i left that comment. I’ve never posted a comment before on the computer and didn’t think it actually worked. In winter i look on the net to find a new research into seed production and one of my searches led me to your site.

The Volk study found that all but one of the Porcelain phenotypes tested were duplicates. My observation concur with this with one exception: Mexican Red, a nebulous name for a garlic which looks and tastes like every other Porcelain except that it has purple anthers and produces seed. I did get viruses on most of my Porcelain which made it that much easier to discontinue most of them. I also found that most of the Artichokes were barely distinguishable after 3-5 years. Turbans as well. I have trialled Turbans collected by friends, family, a neighbor’s friend’s missionary daughter, etc. from places like Corella, Euzkadi (Basque territory), Eastern Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan,Thailand, China, Sonoran desert region (USA), etc. Sometimes i think there’s better color in one to the next or that average maturity dates are a little off but if the sampling is large enough even these “differences” are unconvincing. Leaf architecture, width, length, scape length, maturity dates, anthers, etc–these are all basically the same, /in my climate, soil, and latitude/ here in SW Oregon. When i got the Turban that friends brought back from Bangkok it was a white bulb with white cloves and an odd cloves configuration. After 2 seasons it was a typical Turban. My soil and water have a high iron content which affects coloration. The category i’ve seen the most diversity in is Asiatics. I have yet to see two identical cultivars. Most interesting to me are the one that do not fit into any of the categories. I have several in my collection including a few collected in the wild. If you have the ’04 SSE Harvest Edition there is an article by Rich Hannon on a seed collection mission in Turkmenistan. I am growing the two garlic he found (2nd year). In the first season they changed from where they had been adapted to (Pullman, WA, Southeastern WA state) but neither was particularly viable for seed production. We shall see.

Here are a couple more links.

this is Gatersleben and it’s interesting to see how they classify.

http://pgrc-35.ipk-gatersleben.de/apps/gcc/core_collection.htm#_Taxonomic_Af

the garlic and health project was based in the NL. this is the results page, though there is much more on the site. Interestingly i too found that application of sulfur fertilizer increased pungency in garlic and it’s a fun thing to experiment with.

http://www.plant.wur.nl/projects/garlicandhealth/Results.htm

I am attaching a research paper. It is current and it gives you an idea of how far the true seed thing has been taken, at least by Israelis who have some very well funded research. It’s a little discouraging at times to do so much work on something that others have already taken a long long way but i am a garlic geek, a grower not a scientist and i want to breed my own varieties.

Hi Patrick. I recall you looking in to rust in garlic. I was looking in some old Garlic Seed Foundation zine and found a note that you probably already know but i thought i’d share with you.

“Rust is caused by /Puccinia porri./ It varies on different hosts and different strains of the fungus have different levels of virulence to various allium species. The fungus overwinters as spores on field trash and hedge rows and is blown long distances in the wind. The disease occurs most frequently under conditions of high humidity and low rainfall (immersion in water reduces spore viability). Spores need at least 4 hours at 97% RH to germinate and infect. Rust is enhanced by plant stress from too wet, too dry and excessive nitrogen. Control is limited”… Basically clean seed, good crop rotation, separate field and control of allium weeds.

Hi Avram,

I have another question for you.

At what stage do you usually pluck the bulbils? Do you do it while the scape is still fairly immature, or do you wait until the bulbils have begun to develop and are exposed?

About what date do you usually start this?

Hi Patrick. I’ve experimentented with different things. I’ve cut the scapes before elongation, put them in water and eventually they elongate, swell and open. I’ve left them to natuarlly elongate, and open. I’ve foliar fed them to keep vegetative growth process to continue as long as possible. My best result was to do this: foliar feed weekly to try to keep the plant alive and pluck the bulbils when the spathes began to open. When the stems really started dying i cut them and put them in water. I’ve hand pollinated with small paint brushes but the bees seem attacted to them and i’ve rubbed cut inflorescences against others during anthesis. As far as plucking goes, i’ve tried a number of different tweezers. Some varieties are easy, others are very difficult. There seem to be layers that emerge at at different times. It’s challenging to avoid breaking the pedicals, the delicate flowers stalks while plucking.

It’s been a very cool wet Spring here. Usually, or at least since i’ve been keeping records, i’ve harvested all the Turbans and started on some of the Asiatics. This year i’ve harvested only two experimental varieties from SE Asia. Great year for brassicas, not so good for solanums, except spuds. I’m delving into the world of tractors and implements to work up the pasture and get it cover cropped. While last year i plucked bulbils from 131 plants, i don’t see myself having the time to do as much this year, especially becuase none of the 370 or so seeds i collected germinated which is very discouraging. The one plant i grew from seed is doing great, potted up and in its second year.

How’s your season thus far? How’s the garlic look? When is your harvest period?

I’m attaching my records from last year. The nebulously named “Mexican Red” is the only Porcelain appearing bulb to have purple anthers that i’ve experimented with and i’d hoped it’d be good for crosses.

I don’t recall what all links i gave you but here’s the updated ATTRA publication (they are the BEST resource for organic/sustainable agriculture i’ve found.

http://attra.ncat.org/calendar/new_pubs.php/2008/04/11/garlic_organic_production

This is another interesting one: http://www.bignewsforgarlic.com/

Hours of reading here: I have a glossary of botanical nomenclature handy when pouring though any of the academic research. http://igb.agri.gov.il/allium_page.pl#Allium_Collecting_Missions_and_Research_Activity

Garlic June 2008

Most of my hardneck varieties have formed scapes, in various stages of curling and uncurling.

Garlic Scape

A couple of the scapes have also started opening and forming bulbils.  In the past I’ve removed most of my scapes to eat and in order to promote bulb growth.  This year I’m going to let most of them form.  Not only am I tired of eating garlic scapes, but I’ve started to learn that bulbils are really useful.  It’s easier to send someone bulbils in the mail, and it’s safer to give bulbils to other gardeners when sharing garlic because you are less likely to spread disease that way.

I am also going to try prodding the garlic plants to make some seeds.  I understand this can be done by plucking out the bulbils with tweezers, which will in turn cause the scape to bloom and try to produce seeds as sort of a survival mechanism.  I am not expecting success the first year doing this, and I understand it’s a lot of work and takes a lot of patience I probably don’t have.

Garlic Scape

Garlic Rust has started to appear on the leaves, which is not very good news but was expected.  It appeared on my garlic about the same time last year.  Harvest is in about 7 weeks, so it’s just a matter of waiting and hoping it doesn’t get too bad.

Garlic Rust

This plant has it a little worse.

Garlic Rust

Garden Pictures June 2008

Many Sisters

Many Sisters

Three sisters is the famous combination of squash, beans and corn.  I’m trying a variation of this with different kinds of corn, beans, squash and cucumbers.

The corn is Double Standard, a sweet corn from Real Seeds.

The beans are True Red Cranberry from Miss Hathorn, Cherokee Trail of Tears from Ottawa Gardener and Kahnawake Mohawk Pole Beans from Michel a reader in Quebec who got some While Alpine Strawberry seeds from me in exchange.

The cucumbers are Achocha from Real Seeds, Spacemaster from an old packet of seeds from Heirloom Acres and Lemon Cucumber an Australian heirloom that was a free packet of seeds with a Baker Creek seed order.

The squashes are Blue Hubbard from Miss Hathorn, Spaghetti Squash from Baker Creek and Zucchino Rampicante (also called Zucca d’Albenga or Trombocino), from a Seed Savers Exchange member in North Carolina.

It looks set to be a jungle in there!

Oca

Oca

This is what the Oca plant looks like when it’s growing.  These all seem to be doing well.  You can see a picture of the tubers in my Lost Crops of the Incas post from several weeks ago.  Some of these tubers came from Lieven, and some came from Real Seeds.

Celeriac

Celariac

This is one half of the raised bed.  The celariac plants are getting big and bushy.  This is a really easy kind of celery to grow, and it’s really nice in soups.

Crosne

Crosne

My understanding is this is pronounced like crone, as in old-crone.

This is the other half of the raised bed with my celeriac.

This plant is a member of the mint family (and so it will probably keep growing forever in my garden), but you eat the roots instead of the leaves.  I will post more about this later.  Frank gave me the tubers for this.

Farthest Northern Melon Mix

Melon Plants

The melon plants went out yesterday.  These are the same plants Søren is growing in his garden this year and what he grew last year as well.  You can see my plants are much smaller than Søren’s.  I also didn’t prepare my bed with horse manure like he did, I just gave mine a generous amount of compost.

The basic idea with these plants is this.  Melons don’t normally grow outdoors in northern latitudes (this is in respect to the northern hemisphere).  Some varieties do better than others, but none do very well.  So what do you do if you want to try to breed a melon for northern climates?  If they don’t grow at all, you have a chicken and egg situation, because you can’t get them to grow in the first place so how can you even consider crossing different varieties in order to create something more suitable for your climate?

The solution to this chicken and egg problem is for someone in a more southern location to do the preliminary work for you and create a genepool mix or grex, by combining the genetics of a number of different melon varieties which have been shown to be suitable for northern climates.  The idea is I will grow a number of these plants, and be able to select which melons do well in my garden.

A special thanks goes out to both the Seed Ambassadors who brought these seeds with them when they travelled in Europe, as well as Tim Peters who created this Melon Mix.

Heirloom Tomatoes

Some other people have been posting heirloom tomatoes they’ve planted for 2008, so I thought I would post my list as well. It’s one of the problems having a garden on the other side of the town that I have to depend on notes rather than actually looking at what I have growing in the garden when making a post like this, so I might update this list later if I discover an omission or two.

This year the Seed Savers Exchange sent me their new catalog, with wonderful color pictures of the tomatoes they were offering, and I got sucked in. I placed a large seed order of mostly tomatoes from them, and that’s mostly what I’m planting this year. I got a few seeds from other places and people and had a few saved seeds as well. The nice thing about the Seed Savers Exchange is when they put together a collection of seeds like these tomatoes, you know the people behind the decisions are very knowledgeable on the subject, and have probably put together a rather special collection. That’s what I’m counting on anyway.

The Japanese Trifele Black tomato is a relatively new tomato that many people are growing this year. For those of you in the UK, this is rumoured to be Raymond Blanc’s favorite tomato (Raymond Blanc is a British TV personality, originally from France and owner of a chain of upscale restaurants in the UK). In spite of it’s name, it’s really a Russian tomato. Apparently one of the people involved in breeding it was Japanese, which is how it got it’s name. Not only is there a black version of this tomato, but there are a number of other colors as well. I figured what else do you do if you are an heirloom gardener but collect them all, so I am growing the red and yellow versions of this tomato too. I also got seeds from the orange version from a SSE member in Belarus, but they came too late for planting this year and I didn’t have any more space for tomatoes in the garden anyway, so maybe I’ll plant it next year.

I had originally planned to plant some ground cherries (Ottawa Gardener sent me some seeds), but as part of preparing our house for the foundation work a lot of our things got packed into boxes and put into storage, and a few seed packets got misplaced including these seeds. So, they are on the agenda for next year.

This is my first time trying tomatillos, and they’ve been quite a challenge to get started. I’ve now had to sow the seeds three times indoors for transplant outside. The first two times, the plants just died after transplant, apparently because it was too cold for them. Now both kinds seem to be doing okay. I have the green ones on my roof, and the purple/green ones at the garden. Isolation is necessary for seed saving, and they would cross if grown in the same place. As I understand it, you need at least two plants, because they will not set fruit if they don’t receive pollen from another plant (self-sterile). I have at least three of each variety. The Purple/Green variety is from Real Seeds, and the Green variety is from Lieven.

Here’s the list:

Matt’s Wild Cherry
Giant Belgium
Silvery Fir Tree
Hillbilly Flame
Copia
Black Prince
Black Cherry
Mortgage Lifter
Pineapple
Brandywine
True Black Brandywine
Nebraska Wedding (Determinate Type)
Czech’s Bush (Determinate Type)
Black Sea Man (Determinate Type)
Giant Syrian
Moonglow
Japanese Trifele Black (Really from Russia)
Japanese Trifele Yellow
Japanese Trifele Red
Blondkopfchen
Nygous
Brown Berry
John Baer
Crnkovic Yugoslavian
Gold Medal
Emerald Evergreen
Taxi
Green Tomatillos
Green/Purple Tomatillos
Sweet Pea Currant
Gold Rush Currant
Powers Heirloom