Does Anyone Recognize This?

Recently I posted about my hedge, and I’ve been trying to figure out what kind of plant it is.  I suspect it’s something very ordinary, but I’m not sure.  I also suspect it’s nitrogen fixing, because it grows fast, makes the ground around it very soft and is the source of a lot of weeds, but now I’m not 100% sure of this either.  The leaf in this picture is about 4cm wide:

Leaf Picture 1

Normally it looks pretty healthy, but in the last few days we’ve had hot and dry weather, and it’s looking a little ratty.  There is actually a lot of diversity in the shape of the leaves.

Leaf Picture 2

Old growth is green, and new growth is red:

Leaf Picture 3

If anyone has any ideas, I’d love to hear them!

Pink and White Currants

Pink and White Currants

I’m not sure what variety the white one is, but the pink is Rosasport.  These are among a number of plants I got from Lieven last winter.

Since it’s the first year for these plants the harvest is very small.

Red currants the previous owner left in the garden came and went a few weeks ago.  I didn’t know what the plant was when I got the garden, and it was really growing out of control.  I just pruned it down to the ground, and that turned out to be a mistake because currants form berries mostly on parts of the plant that are two or three years old, so I didn’t get much of a harvest this year.

Another plant I got from Lieven is a Josta berry, a cross between a black currant and a gooseberry.  It’s supposed to be a very strong growing and productive plant, which makes nice juice.  This plant didn’t have any berries this year.

Tigernuts

Tiger Nut Plants

I’m growing these in a pot on my roof.  Emma gave me tubers for these last year.  The plants look sort of like grass, but the shape the leaves grow in is very precise.

The tubers of this plant are used to make Horchata de Chufas, a Spanish drink similar to rice, almond or soy milk.

This can be an invasive plant, so it’s usually best to grow it in a container.  It’s not frost hardy, so in places with a hard winter it can also be grown outside.

This plant is similar to water chestnuts, and can tolerate very wet soil.

The Difference Beans Make

I have the same tomato plants growing in two different parts of my garden.  Both Matt’s Wild Cherry.  The first picture you can see beans growing at the base of the plant:

Matt“s Wild Cherry

Here in a different spot, on the three poles to the right, Matt’s Wild Cherry growing without beans:

Matt's Wild Cherry

In the background here you see my wind beaten Jerusalem artichokes, which by the way don’t seem to mind a shortage of nitrogen.

The poles are all the same size, about 180cm in total with about 1.5m sticking out above the ground.

You can see the tomato plants next to the beans are about 1 meter tall, and without the beans about 30cm.  To be honest, I did put the 30cm plants out in the garden a few weeks later, but that still doesn’t account for the entire difference in size.

I posted before about the ground test I did, which showed my nitrogen levels were ‘medium-low to low’, at least in the one spot I did the test.  It’s really becoming obvious just how low the overall nitrogen in my garden really is.  I did the soil test first, then added compost, so I assumed that would help a little bit.  I’ve also planted beans in several places.

What I’m seeing is anywhere a plant is not growing right next to a bean, it’s not doing very well.

I think because the nitrogen levels in the ground are so low, it’s contributing to the problem I mentioned in the last post about having ‘dead ground’, because all life needs nitrogen, and this in turn means the nutrients in the compost I added are becoming available to the plants only very slowly because there are no worms or insects to metabolize the compost.

Interestingly, my garlic is not showing signs of problems along these lines, but it’s hard to be completely sure.

With increasing urgency as I’ve been understanding what was going on I’ve been sowing beans through the garden, and most are germinating and growing by now.  Bush beans mature in about 90 days, so there’s still plenty of season left for them.  It’s clear as they begin to fix nitrogen, they are making a big difference to the neighboring plants.  I’ve used up nearly my entire stock of bean seeds!  The other problem I’ve been having is a minor water shortage, which I need to get the seeds to germinate, but fortunately we’ve been getting a little rain.

I don’t think there’s any real damage to the garden as a result, but a few things may not grow as large or produce as much in the end.  The row of tiny tomatoes probably won’t produce much, but they aren’t very important.  They are three different types of currant tomatoes that I was growing next to each other in order to compare them.  I’ll be just as happy getting fruits a month late, and I don’t need very many.

Rusty Garlic and Dead Ground

It’s always hard to take pictures of my garlic plants, because I have so many of them growing close together, but in the middle of this picture (the plants with their base at the bottom center) are some of my rustiest plants.  This is Kransnodar White garlic.  Kransnodar is a city in Siberia, and I think it was famous for it’s garlic in Soviet days.  In a few days these plants will be dead for sure, but I may still be able to harvest something from them.

I remember from last year this variety got rust badly too, and the bulbs I harvested were on the small side.

Rusty Garlic

Another variety getting bad rust is Tuscan, an Italian variety:

Rusty Garlic

These pictures don’t have enough resolution to see it clearly, but it looks like these plants have pox or something.  They are covered in lots of small brown spots.

I would say in general the rust seems worse than last year, but it’s still too early to say how bad it really is.  I’m so close to harvest, that every week the plants stay alive is very important.  These two pictures represent the worst, and most of my garlic really seems to be doing okay for the moment.  The severity of the rust seems to depend on the location in the garden, as well as the variety.  I’m learning the quality of soil in my garden varies greatly from spot to spot, and it’s clear that has an impact on the severity of the rust.  Exactly what the factors are behind this is less than clear however.

It’s been my intention to reduce the number of varieties I have, so any that get particularly bad rust which are not otherwise interesting, will probably get discarded.

Now I’m waiting for the potato blight to arrive.  It’s getting to be about time for that too!

Dry and Windy Weather

It’s been very dry recently.  Not particularly hot, but the wind is really drying out the ground.  Established plants in my garden don’t need a lot of watering, because while the water table is going down a bit in this weather, it’s not too far down and anything with deep roots can reach it.  I’ve recently planted some beans and a few other seeds, and it’s been a challenge to keep them wet enough to germinate, because the ground is so sandy every time I add water it just drains through.  Parts of my garden are even rich with seashells!

So far the only victim of the wind were a few of my Jerusalem artichoke plants, but I guess these will grow back.

This dry weather has really given me a different perspective on the soil of my garden.  Beside noticing how sandy it is, I’ve been noticing anything that’s not growing next to beans has not been doing very well, which seems to go along with my soil test of a few months ago that showed a general lack of nitrogen.  It’s also just increasingly clear the ground is very lacking in organic material.  I have really added a lot of compost in recent months brought from my previous garden, but it has not really had a lot of time to become incorporated and more would probably help.

I’ve noticed the ground in my garden is mostly ‘dead’.  There are very few worms or insects living in it, with the exception of a lot of ants.

If you are a commercial farmer (at least in this part of the world), the ideal situation is ‘dead’ ground.  Organic material is usually not desirable, and is best avoided when possible.  Pure clay, silt or sand, or some mixture of these three is the best.  The reason for this is farmers have a system of growing crops with chemicals that works very well for them, and if the ground is ‘dead’ there are simply fewer variables for them to deal with.  The nutrient balance of the ground (or perhaps the complete lack of nutrients) is generally known in advance so a preset amount of fertilizer can be added.  Most chemical fertilizers don’t remain in the ground for more than a growing season, because they are water soluble, so every year you are starting fresh.   All of the pests and diseases are mostly known quantities, and there are chemicals available to deal with these.

It’s part of the culture here that individual thinking is not encouraged, and there is often a social price to be paid if you think and act differently than others.  Perhaps in part for this reason, most people here seem to take the same approach with gardening that farmers take, and prefer ‘dead’ ground with chemicals added.  It’s certainly an issue that divides people mostly according to nationality in my garden complex, with compost being made and used mostly by non-Dutch born gardeners, and the point of some contention.  Since the previous gardener was Dutch-born, it’s logical to think the approach he took was to promote dead ground, but I don’t know for sure.

It’ll be interesting to see how my garden changes as I add more organic material, and try to promote more life processes in the soil.  I’m curious how long it will take before I notice real changes.