Big Projects 2010: Garden

In connection with Tom Wagner’s visit last year, he gave me a collection of true potato seeds from his breeding projects.  In the seed tray above you see the seeds germinating, with the numbers corresponding with his various breeding lines.  He explained the pedigree of many of his lines in this video.

If you are in Europe and would like to join in on the trials at the last minute, I have a few seeds left over.  There’s still plenty of diversity in these seeds, but you need to understand to some extent you would be getting the leftovers.  If you are interested, send me an email.  As part of participating you would be expected to stay in touch and let us know how things go, good or bad.  Beyond that, there are no strings and it’s a great opportunity to experience potato breeding first hand.  You’ll need probably 20 m2 or so of garden space available.

If you live outside of Europe, you should get in touch with Tom directly.  His discussion forum is probably the best way to do this.

For me this is a very important project in many ways.  Included in many of these lines are late blight resistance, as well as many other exciting tastes and traits that come with the biodiversity selected by a professional public domain plant breeder.  Late blight and the chemicals used to combat it are threatening the environment in Europe and the consumers who eat the potatoes.  It’s the excuse seed companies are using to justify the creation of a GM potato variety that’s resistant to late blight.  This past year Europe commited itself to phasing out the dangerous chemicals used in this way, so within a decade all that’s likely to be grown for human consumption will be blight resistant varieties.  Thanks in a large part to Tom, we won’t be forced to accept GM potatoes without any other alternatives being available.

The sort of plant breeding Tom is doing, public domain plant breeding, is very different from what commercial plant breeders do.  Tom has a single priority; to develop lines of potatoes that people want to eat and grow in their gardens or farms.  While Tom would certainly like to earn some money doing what he does, the varieties he produces are not dependent on this.  He simply does everything he can to create the most exciting and delicious potatoes possible.

This is really a big contrast to large seed companies like Monsanto, who create varieties strictly for profit.  These for profit lines generally have little to do with taste, but rather what makes the perfect Mc Donalds french fry or what grows with the most uniform and blemish free appearance.

Most garden bloggers who grow their own food, and particularly those that read this blog, are very attracted to the idea of growing heirloom varieties.  Most people especially are interested in varieties associated with the history of the area they live.  This is a really good thing!  We all know these varieties taste great, are suitable for seed saving and often grow very well in our gardens.

What people sometimes forget is where these varieties came from!  Someone had to create them.  Like Tom’s potatoes, someone in the past created something they thought was exciting and tasted great, in fact someone not very different from Tom.

The kinds of varieties Tom creates are often called modern heirlooms, and are created exactly the same way heirloom varieties were created in the past.

The Current Crisis

The problem we have now is there are not many people like Tom left around, and many of them are getting old.

There’s been a big increase of awareness in the last few years about the importance of choosing to grow heirloom varieties in your garden, as a way of keeping these varieties alive.  There has not however been the same awareness of keeping breeding projects like Tom’s alive.

Directly and indirectly I know of about 5-10 people like Tom, who do projects like he does.  I know there are others, and there are increasing numbers of gardeners who are experimenting a bit in thier gardens, but the number of plant breeders who are actively involved in producing new varieties for public release is very, very small.  Surely most readers of this blog will know I’m well connected in the world of garden vegetables, and at least in the English speaking world I would probably be in touch with most of these people.  The number is very, seriously, small.

What I find equally distressing about the extraordinarily small number of public domain plant breeders are their personal circumstances.

Without any exceptions all the plant breeders I know have genuine financial difficulties.  They are sometimes living in an apartment without any of their own land on which to grow things.  They lack adequate tools or assistance with the physical tasks that confront them.  Their sole income is often selling the seeds they produce, effectively selling hours and hours of work and investment of personal resources for almost nothing.  Usually they are supported by a spouse that works.  It’s not unusual for them to lose years, even decades of work, because they don’t have adequate storage facilities for their breeding materials and they become ill or have other personal problems.

There is simply no functioning mechanism in today’s world for these people to be adequately paid for the work they do.  They produce seeds that are free of intellectual property rights, sold at the cost of production and distribution or traded between gardeners for free, and no royalties ever find their way back to the breeders.  There’s honestly often no one there to help when they need it the most, certainly not if they aren’t someone who’s very well known like Tom.

What does that say about the world we live in where the people who are creating the food we want to eat, with breeding projects that are the only real competition to Monsanto, and they are among the poorest among us?  There isn’t likely to be genuine transition of modern agriculture to sustainable methods without the participation of traditional plant breeders, and it’s so incredibly short sighted we are treating them this way.

As the US begins it’s anti-trust investigation into it’s domestic agriculture, we are all hoping there will be big changes, and public domain plant breeding is one of the possible alternatives.

As well as growing Tom’s potato seeds this year, I plan to talk a lot more about this problem as well as look for some solutions.

At the moment I can’t accept small donations, but I’m working on ways I might be able to do this in the future.  If you’re someone with a substantial amount of money to invest in trying to solve this problem, I hope you will get in touch with me and see if we can work something out.

While I’m open to any and all discussions, my particular interest is looking for mechanisms that will avoid ownership of the seeds or the channels of payment and royalties to the breeders.  For example, in the past year we have seen an ugly fight for control of the Seed Savers Exchange in the US, we have seen a similar fight for control of Kokopelli Seeds in Europe, and we’ve witnessed the opening of a global seed vault in Norway in which Bill Gates is one of the largest funders.

I am looking for a mechanism for funding public domain plant breeders where control is not something that’s owned, paid for or fought over.  This is the food of our future and our past, and it belongs in the public domain.  In particular I will be looking for a mechanism similar to what’s used for open source software like Linux.

I am not looking to create a non for profit organization controlled by a board of directors.

I will be looking for ways to both provide immediate, direct assistance to plant breeders, as well as provide long term incomes and royalties to the breeders as well as their families.

Lathyrus tuberosus (Tuberous Pea)

For the second time in a year, my friend Elzo from the Wieringer Akker gave me some of these tubers.  Apparently for him they do very well.  They are a nitrogen fixing perennial tuber, that’s supposed to be very hardy in our climate.

The first time Elzo gave me some of these tubers, I killed them with neglect.  He assures me this is a very difficult thing to do, but I succeeded.

The advice Elzo gave was because the tubers can grow very deep in the ground, it’s easier to harvest if you grow them in a container.  This is what I have, a plastic tub buried in a corner of my garden.

Starting Peas Indoors

I set a batch of peas out a few days ago, and I’ve just started another indoors.

These past two years I’ve been using a method I found on the Real Seeds website, in the archives of their newsletters I think.

The basic problem in our area is if you direct sow pea seeds, they often just don’t come up.  I guess there are a few reasons for this, rotting in cold ground and getting eaten by mice, perhaps others.  Anyway the solution is to start them indoors.

I used to start them in individual pots, but this was really time consuming as well as needing a lot of potting soil.  The secret I learned from Real seeds is to just sprout them in paper towels (called kitchen roll in some places)!  That’s all you need is for the seeds to have sprouted, and they won’t rot in the ground and the mice won’t eat them!  This really saves a lot of trouble.

When you plant them, instead of sowing heavily in expectation of germination that’s less than 100% and thinning later, you can sow the distance apart you want the plants to be, because most will grow.

This has worked really well for me so far!  Does anyone else grow peas this way?

Dead Graft

As you can see the rest of the plant is doing great, but the grafts I posted about several weeks ago didn’t make it.

So the lessons for me seem to be the following:

  • Citrus bud grafting is normally best done in summer or fall
  • I should have taped the graft tighter, and SHOULD HAVE USED PARAFILM TAPE.
  • I probably should have done something more to keep the scion wood from drying out.  For some time I had a plastic bag covering the entire plant, and Christina has a good way to do this with parafilm tape.

Well in a few weeks I plan to have another go with some apple trees…  Maybe this summer I’ll try something again with citrus.

Citrus Grafting

I decided a few months ago it was time for me to get into the world of plant grafting.  I posted a few weeks ago about some pre-grafted fruit trees I bought, as well as some root stock.  I expected this all to start in the course of the coming months, but then I had the idea of doing a citrus graft!

This all started when I read Christina’s post here, about some mandarins in the garden of a friend.  She mentioned a variety named Shirokolistvennyi, a Russian variety believed to be very cold hardy.  That started me thinking, if there was a cold hardy mandarin that grows in Russia, why couldn’t I grow it here in Amsterdam?

I asked Christina if her friend might be able to send me a cutting to make a graft with, only to find out she lives in an area under citrus quarantine, and scion wood is not even allowed to be transported locally.  This is to prevent the spread of disease.

After some looking, I found some scion budwood was available from the USDA GRIN germplasm collection.  I agreed with the curator he would send me some — if I would first send him a copy of the ‘letter of authorization’ he said was required for European import of citrus.  So I set off on the great paper chase.

I called customs, the plant disease control people, the people who perform inspections on plant imports (this has all been privatized, outsourced and just a real mess in general).

Everyone I talked to said the same thing.  There are no restrictions on importing citrus budwood into the Netherlands (I don’t know about the rest of the EU), so there was no ‘letter of authorization’ to issue, in fact no one I spoke to had ever heard of a letter of authorization.

The USDA GRIN curator said he couldn’t issue a phytosanitary certificate or any other paperwork, until I could give him the letter of authorization.

Finally we agreed he would just skip all the paperwork, and send it!

So there it is, in the middle, in the plastic bag.

While waiting for GRIN to process my budwood request, I set out to find rootstock for grafting.  Those are the two plants, Poncirus trifoliata, also called Trifolate orange, a citrus relative, said to be very cold hardy and good for use as grafting rootstock.  They are really thorny!

I found the plants at a local nursery De Groene Prins.  It turns out the guy that runs the nursery has been looking for cold hardy citrus to grow locally for some time now, so we had a walk through his garden and he showed me some of the plants he’s experimenting with!  He was very knowledgeable and helpful, and certainly worth a visit for anyone looking for exotic cold hardy plants in the Netherlands.

Above is a grafting knife I bought a few months ago on a visit to San Diego California.  They sell it there in part because it’s used by the citrus industry.  It’s made by Victorinox, and in fact pretty widely available.

I had two plants, so I decided I would make two different kinds of grafts.  First a standard graft, then a bud graft.

For the standard graft, I cut a piece of the budwood and the top of the plant at roughly the same angle.  The budwood is on the left here.  I also cut a further notch in it, that was too small to really show up in the picture, but it is right below the tips of each of these cuts in the down direction.  The intention is to make a bit of a notch, so the two pieces will interlock a bit.

Here they are slotted into one another.  The budwood is on top.  This stayed in place long enough by itself to take this picture.

Next I put some grafting wax on it.  I read different places on the Internet that you should either put the wax on first or tape if first, not knowing for sure which I should do, I started with the wax.

Actually while looking at the pictures I took to make this post I see maybe if I used tape first, I could have taped the graft closed a bit.  None of the surfing around on the subject I’ve done had suggested this might be a good idea.

The wax was purchased locally and called grafting wax, but I’m not really sure it’s the right product.  I needed to melt it over a flame first, and it wasn’t very easy to apply.  None of the wax really penetrated the graft at all, it’s just sort of stuck to the outside.

In the absence of an actual product called grafting tape, I used masking tape.  I had read somewhere that it was okay to do this, but I’m not sure…

Above is the bud graft I made.  The process of doing this was far less picturesque.  In fact it was very difficult, and I hope not too much blood is showing in this picture.  Cutting a bud off the scion wood was no problem, together with some surrounding plant tissue.

You are supposed to slot this into a T-shaped cut on the stem of the root stock.  This is really a lot harder to make than it might seem.  It’s very woody, and when you make a cut with a knife that’s so sharp, the cut disappears right away.  When you try to cut it again with the knife, you make a second parallel cut, that just damages the plant and isn’t very good for slotting the bud into.

Anyway, next time I will approach it more like using the knife to sort of gouge the cut up from below.

The graft is held in place with a rubber band, as an alternative to grafting rubber.

This was sort of a difficult first grafting attempt to make, but then again I guess I’m never for doing anything the easy way.

Actually, in the process of ordering the budwood and buying the rootstock, a Russian friend of mine searched the Internet in Russian for this variety of mandarin.  It turns out it’s more commonly known by the name Gruzinskiy Shirokolistnyi, which means Georgian Wide Leaved Mandarin.  There isn’t any specific information available in Russian about it being cold hardy, but it is supposed to be good for low light conditions (at the possible expense of fewer fruits).  This is promising for me, because low light in the winter can be a problem.  Georgia however has a much warmer climate than me, so I’m a little worried it really is cold hardy.

What my Russian friend said she read, in general, mandarins are hardy down to -5C with no damage, and at -10C may be killed.  It’s pretty unusual the temperature gets down to -10C here, but it does happen.  This winter it got to about -12C.

At the same time, the rootstock I’m using is supposed to make the tree more cold hardy, so this may help.  I understand the rootstock is good down to -20C by itself.

Anyway, I guess I first have to worry about the graft working, then worry about the cold hardiness.

The last part of this story is that I had extra budwood left over after making these two grafts.  I traded them with the guy who runs the nursery where I got the Trifolate orange for these above!  Three seeds from his Yuzu lemon tree, also known to be very cold hardy.  He had two of these plants, one outdoors and one in his polytunnel.  The outdoor plant didn’t have any fruits yet, perhaps still too young, but it survived this past very cold winter with flying colors.  His indoor plant had some fruit on it, and it looked and smelled like a very nice quality lemon.

If anyone out there who has ever done grafting before has any comments, I’d love to hear them.  Especially if this doesn’t work, I’d love to know why…