How to Plant a Modern Organic Garden

Okay, from the video in my post a few days ago we now know how to plant a Victory Garden, but how about the modern version?

The Technique

Make a list of what you think would be good to grow. Don’t worry if you’re not sure, this list will change over time. It’s important to have a place to start however.

Research crop rotations. In particular, when you begin you will probably organize your crops into four groups; Roots (carrots, beets, etc), Solancae (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, etc), Brassicas (cabbage family) and Other. There is possibly a fifth group, being perennials (plants that keep growing from one year to the next).

After researching crop rotations, go back to your list of what you want to grow and research how much space the plants need. Try to fit what you want to grow in each of their four (or five) groups, and plan roughly equal space for them in your garden according to a rotation schedule. This step can be very time consuming and frustrating, just try to do the best you can, and instead of being perfect commit yourself to improving it over time. Be sure to incorporate something that fixes nitrogen into your rotation plan.

Get the seeds. If you know of plant diseases in your area, look for resistant varieties. At the same time, if you don’t have a particular disease, getting a resistant variety won’t help and will limit your choices. Get to know your diseases and pests, and plan for them specifically. While there’s no reason you can’t grow commercial seeds, be sure to pick some OP/heirloom varieties so you can save seeds as discussed below. Be sure to check out the Bloggers Seed Network!

Make a garden layout plan. This too will probably change over time, so make the plan in a way changes can easily be incorporated. Also make a plan for when things get started, indoor or outdoors, and when they should be transplanted. Don’t forget to harden off your plants.

If possible, do a soil test. If this is not possible or desirable, inventory the weeds of the area, and see if they indicate problems with your soil. Make a plan for dealing with any problems you discover. If chemical fertilizer has been used recently, you will have special problems connected with this.

Be sure to make your own compost with your garden and other waste. Also look for locally obtained materials to use for mulch.

Collect your own rain water.  Water can be diverted from the roof of most structures into a barrel.  Home made systems can be made with recycled materials for almost no cost.  Purchased systems are also widely available.

Organize your garden into beds. These can be raised or not, with or without a border. The important thing to consider here is you should be able to easily reach all parts of the bed without having to step in them. This usually means they should not be wider than about 4-5 ft (1,5m), with access from both sides.

Don’t use chemical fertilizers, uncomposted manure or chemical pest controls. If you feel it’s necessary to use some fertilizer, try making your own like compost or green plant ‘teas’. If you want to buy a commercial product consider kelp or fish based products. Fertilizer of this nature is normally best applied directly on the leaves of the plants as needed.  Remember, the taste of fish can find it’s way into your vegetables, so use sparingly and not close to harvest time.

In particular in the case of plants in the cabbage family, be sure to research common insect and plant disease problems. It’s a good idea to do this with other plants as well. Be sure to ask around to other gardeners. In the case of the cabbage family you will likely need to pick caterpillars off by hand, keep the plants covered with a net or use a product called Bt. You may need to cover your carrots to protect them from the carrot fly. If you grow potatoes you should understand what blight looks like, and be prepared to promptly remove infected plants or their foliage. There are also some blight resistant varieties becoming available.

Be sure to save seeds from your OP varieties. By saving your own seeds, you create special varieties uniquely suited for your garden’s climate.

Extra for Experts

After establishing your garden, you may want to think about planning your garden so you have fresh food available for as much of the year as possible, as well as using season extending techniques like cold frames and greenhouses.

You may also wish to try cross pollinating some of your varieties, in order to try developing new ones. This can only be done with OP varieties.

Finally be sure to check out other organic bloggers and websites for growing techniques and plant ideas:

Daughter of the Soil
Fluffius Muppetus
In the Toad’s Garden
Mas Du Diable
MustardPlaster
Observer Organic Allotment Blog
Plan Be
The Vegetable Garden
Veggie Gardening Tips

There are many others! Be sure to check out my Blogroll.

Please let me know what I’m missing here!

New Hawaii Aspartame Resolution

Last year I made a series of posts about Hawaii’s move to ban the artificial sweetener aspartame in the state.  While this didn’t pass last year, a new resolution has been put forward, Hawaii HCR 128, calling on the FDA themselves to revoke their approval of aspartame and remove it from the US market.

The text of the resolution is a little tedious, but quite an extraordinary read!  I hope anyone who reads this blog and is a regular consumer of aspartame will read it and give some serious thought to what they’re doing to their bodies.

No less extraordinary is the list of cosponsors of the measure:

  • Angus McKelvey: Economic Revitalization, Business, & Military Affairs (Chair)
  • Maile Shimabukuoro: Hawaiian Affairs (Vice-Chair)
  • Karen Awana: Transportation (Vice-Chair)
  • Della Au Belatti, J.D.: Member Health, Judiciary
  • Tom Brower: Human Services (Vice-Chair)
  • Jerry Chang: Higher Education (Chair)
  • Corrine Ching: Member, Environmental Protection, Higher Education
  • Denny Coffman: Energy & Environmental Protection (Vice-Chair)
  • Cindy Evans: Member, Economic Revitalization, Business, & Military Affairs
  • Faye Hanohano: Public Safety (Chair)
  • Sharon Har: Interim Task Force on Smart Growth (Chair)
  • Ken Ito: Water, Land, & Ocean Resources (Chair)
  • Michael Y. Magaoay: Member, Interim Task Force on Standards of Conduct
  • Joey Manahan: Tourism, Culture, & International Affairs (Chair)
  • Hermina Morita: Energy & Environmental Protection (Chair)
  • Mark Nakashima: Higher Education (Vice-Chair)
  • Scott Nishimoto: Health (Vice-Chair)
  • Roland Sagum III: Member, Finance
  • Roy Takumi: Education (Chair)
  • Glenn Wakai Consumer Protection & Commerce (Vice-Chair)
  • Ryan Yamane: Health (Chair)

Details of the measure and it’s current status can be found on the Hawaiian Legislature webpage (type HCR128 into the search box), and there is an RSS feed if you want to follow the progress of this measure.

First the measure has to clear the Health Commitee, and will then be referred to the Finance Committee.

Breaking the Fertilizer Habit

Fertilizer is probably something all gardeners use, at least from time to time.  It comes in many forms from chemical to animal manure, or perhaps homemade in the form of ‘tea’ made from compost, manure or green plants.  There are also fertilizers claiming to be organic.  Some are added to the ground, and others applied to the leaves of the plants (foliar feeding).  Some are strong and others weak.  Of course there are also the component parts; nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N,P and K), and fertilizers are given numerical ratings of these components like 10-20-10.  It can all seem confusing and opaque, especially at the beginning.

In particular many people feel somehow that fertilizer is an important element of gardening, and since other people use it, they have to as well.  An extension to this is the knowledge that organic gardeners don’t use chemical fertilizers, therefore you have to find an organic alternative like manure.

The Habit

This feeling like fertilizer is somehow an important part of gardening, can lead to a sort of addiction or dependence on fertilizer, that works something like this.

First you add fertilizer to your garden and you notice everything grows faster and looks greener and healthier.  This is particularly true with fertilizer high in nitrogen, and it’s very easy to get the feeling that if some fertilizer makes the plants look so good, more must be better.

At this point you might give your plants so much they experience sudden death, but more likely you keep giving them small amounts over time, perhaps a little extra when you sense it’s needed.  Since fertilizers usually contain more than one nutrient (NPK), probably over time the nutrients in your garden are getting more and more out of balance.  Since this probably leads to your plants not growing well, it can easily make you think you need more fertilizer.

By the time you’ve added so much that you finally realize you are causing the problem and not solving it, you can be faced with a situation that’s very difficult to deal with.

As someone who has spent the past decade or so moving their garden around, and needing to borrow spots from other people, I can tell you it’s a very common problem in my area.

A related problem can be if your garden is former pasture land, or otherwise has a lot of recently applied animal manure.

When do you need fertilizer?

As a rule, for most people, a well managed and established garden does not need any fertilizer.  It’s too complicated a topic to make such a broad statement, but this is the general rule.

It’s possible when you first start a garden you will have some problems, usually a shortage of organic material.  In this case it’s likely you will have to do something about the existing problems, and this might involve using some fertilizer.  Often fertilizer is not necessary, but sometimes it is.

If you are unable to practice good principles of crop rotation, you may need some fertilizer to compensate.  It’s worth pointing out you’ll likely end up with a whole host of other problems too if you don’t practice proper rotations.

Potted plants often require fertilizer.

Unless you are sure you need fertilizer, it’s best not to use any at all.  If you do need to use it, it’s best to use something weak like fish emulsion or homemade teas from green leaves or compost.  Fresh animal manure should almost never be used in your garden, rather it should be composted first.

If you live somewhere soil tests are available, get an analysis of your ground before you add any fertilizer.  This will give you an idea if anything is needed.

What can you do once the damage is done?

Besides hoping for rain, and just waiting for it all to wash away, one of the first things you should try to address in over-fertilized ground is nitrogen (N) levels.  Too much nitrogen, and your plants will be stressed and the weeds will grow faster than anything else you may try to grow.  Not enough, and your plants will be weak and small.

In my experience, the problem manifests itself like this.  In a healthy garden nitrogen fixing plants are the primary source of nitrogen, and the ground will be rich in fixed nitrogen.  Another much less important source of fixed nitrogen is compost.  Fixed nitrogen remains in the ground, and tends to become available when as the plants need it.  Any other source of nitrogen that gets added to the garden, whether from natural sources like manure or chemical fertilizer, will be soluble.  Soluble nitrogen is available immediately, and can stress or kill plants.  Soluble nitrogen can wash away, but it can also accumulate in large amounts in the ground.  In the presence of soluble nitrogen, nitrogen fixing plants will fix less, so there will be less fixed nitrogen in the ground.  In addition, if your ground is low in organic material, it may not have the capability to retain fixed nitrogen.

If your ground has too much soluble nitrogen, for example has a lot of animal manure added, try covering the garden with a high carbon mulch material like wood chips or straw.  In extreme cases you may want to mix a small amount of this material into the ground, but this can cause other problems as well, so don’t do it unless you think it’s really needed.  High carbon material will remove nitrogen from the ground.

If your garden is lacking nitrogen, consider a weak nitrogen fertilizer like fish/kelp emulsion, or homemade fertilizers like ‘teas’ in the short run, but nitrogen fixing plants are key to the long term.  Consider planting one or more nitrogen fixing trees like Alders or Sea Buckthorn in temperate climates.  For other climates you’ll have to research the issue and see what’s available.  Growing nitrogen fixing crops like beans and peas is also a good solution, perhaps as companion plants.  This is a situation that may take a few years to get stabilized, and if you’re using a chemical fertilizer now and intend to stop, you may want to cut back as a first step, for just this reason.

For other nutrient imbalances, I don’t have any good suggestions.  If you are unsure of the state of your ground, adding compost is always a safe thing to do.  If you can, let your ground lay fallow for a year or more before using it again as a garden.

The Great British Food Fight

Free-Range Chickens

Since I’m pretty much vegetarian, an issue like free-range chickens doesn’t often get my attention.  Honestly, animal welfare is always in the back of my head somewhere, but not a top priority.  Free-range or no, there’s little chance of me eating a chicken, unless it was raised by a friend, but really I’m not very likely to eat chicken at all.

In fact, I should make clear to people reading this who don’t already know, the term ‘free-range’ has very little meaning when it comes to chickens.  Here in the Netherlands free-range is exactly the same as standard factory farm chickens except for half of the life of the chicken, it has to have the ability to walk outside if it wants to.  So free-range chickens have the benefit of a little door on the side of their factory farm enclosure, but the breed of chicken involved is not predisposed to wanting to go outside anyway.  Even if it did, the area outside is generally only large enough for a very small percentage of the birds, should a number of them choose to go outside all at once.  Not really a big improvement over standard chickens, and not a reason in my opinion to pay any extra for.

In fact, during bird flu outbreaks, all chickens here are required to be kept indoors, so the doors on these free-range farms have to be kept closed.  In order to protect the ‘investments’ of farmers who maintain free-range farms, these chickens are allowed to be labelled and sold as free-range chickens even though they are never allowed outside!

Bird Flu

I’ve posted before a couple of times about bird flu, in 2007 and 2008.  The most important thing to understand about bird flu is the public is being lied to and given a distorted picture of the situation.

We are all told that wild migrating birds and privately held small outdoor flocks of chickens and other fowl are to blame for the bird flu problem, as they are what causes the spread of bird flu.  These outdoor birds are quickly targeted during bird flu outbreaks, as a means to contain the situation.  Especially in developing countries, small farmers and families trying to support themselves often pay a heavy price as their flocks are destroyed without any compensation paid.

The truth of the matter is large factory chicken farms are very unsanitary, and breeding grounds for diseases like bird flu.  Not only has nearly every outbreak of bird flu been tied to a particular factory farm, but once an outbreak occurs the logistics of managing it are mind boggling.  Bird flu spreads very quickly, and factory farms can have in excess of 100,000 chickens.  Once a farm becomes infected, these birds have to be killed and destroyed in order to prevent further spreading to animals and people.  Killing this many birds so quickly is a huge undertaking, and is very dangerous for the workers involved.  This generally involves burning the birds, which can have a big impact on nearby air quality.  In all it’s a dangerous, tragic and wasteful situation that no one wants.

The Food Fight

As we come up on bird flu season again this year, there’s a really interesting battle taking place in the UK.  Hugh Fearnley–Whittingstall, himself a celebrity chef and chicken raiser, has teamed up with other celebrity chefs in the UK to try to get the worst factory farm chickens out of the supermarkets.  He is proposing the minimum standard for supermarket chickens should be that set by the British RSPCA.  Hugh himself admits he would not eat chickens raised to the RSPCA standard, and it’s only a little better than standard factory farm chickens, but besides quality the cost difference to the consumer is not great and farmers are better paid for this type of bird.  The RSPCA standard is undeniably an improvement, and an important place to start.

Last year Hugh was successful in getting most of the large UK supermarkets to stop carrying the worst of the factory farm chickens, with one important exception.  The largest UK supermarket chain Tesco continues to offer their so-called Value line of chickens.

Tesco’s position is basically they feel many of their customers want inexpensive chickens, and so are serving their customers wishes.  Hugh has pointed out a number of problems with this argument, for example when their stores offer alternative products they are often sold out, Tesco’s marketing of the chickens includes things like a picture of a farmer standing outdoors and the company has a policy statement on animal welfare that is inconsistent with the way their Value line of chickens is raised.  How can consumers express their preference for the type of chicken they buy when there are no alternatives and there isn’t accurate information available?

For more than a year now Hugh has been trying to arrange various meetings and on camera interviews with people at Tesco, but this has met with very limited success.  Finally he used a technique apparently borrowed from Michael Moore, someone I greatly admire, and Hugh purchased 1 share of Tesco stock.  This gave Hugh access to the shareholders meeting.

Further, after obtaining the signatures of 100 other shareholders, he was able to oblige Tesco to hold a special vote on a proposal of Hugh’s.  Hugh proposed Tesco should either stop selling their Value line of chickens, or change their animal welfare statement to accurately reflect how these chickens are raised.

Tesco put a couple of last minute obstacles in his way.  They said he would both have to get a 75% yes vote for the measure to pass, and he would have to pay the equivalent to about US$100,000 for the cost of mailing the voting materials to the shareholders.  Tesco gave Hugh two days to raise the money.  While Hugh could have paid for part of the costs himself, he launched an Internet appeal and raised all the money from personal donations.

Hugh lost the vote, getting roughly 10% saying yes.  Since a further 10% abstained, this left 20% of shareholders refusing to back the position of the company.  This was a large enough figure that Hugh finally got Tesco’s attention, and the meeting he’s been trying to arrange for more than a year now has been scheduled.  Tesco is finally willing to talk to Hugh!

To sign up as a supporter and/or view some the of the past episodes online, have a look at Hugh’s Chicken Out website.

Even if you aren’t interested in UK chickens, this whole debacle offers fascinating insight into the unsavory business practices of food giants like Tesco, and is really an excellent example of the true price of cheap supermarket foods.  Every country has their own Tesco, in the US Walmart could be compared to them.  Understanding how these retail giants work is important for everyone.

If you live in the UK, think twice about shopping at Tesco!

Your Garden as a Playground

Marc at Garden Desk made a couple of posts recently about his tomato growing plans for next year, and in the process some interesting points came up, not only in the posts themselves but in the discussion too.

In my last post I said if you asked 100 gardeners for advice, you would get 100 different answers.  I think the same must be true if you asked 100 different gardeners what their gardening goals were.

Imagine how boring the world would be if we were all white males of European decent!  By the same token, imagine what it would be like if all gardeners had exactly the same goals in mind.  As a gardening community, and as a world, we are much stronger because of our differences and our different goals.

Some people make a living growing food and raising animals, and most of these people are committed to the idea they are providing an important service to the world.  In this case they are concerned about finances, as well as producing usable food that people want to buy, in the largest quantities possible.

Some people are plant breeders, who are concerned with finding the perfect combination of genes, and discarding everything that’s not quite there yet, wherever ‘there’ is.

Still others are home gardeners like Marc who loves tomatoes, in particular loves to see the differences in strange heirloom varieties and seeks goals like the earliest fruit or the tallest plants.

If you ask any of these people for advice, they will offer it from their own perspectives, and it will all be a little different.

Zero Air Miles

If you buy food from the store or market, it comes from somewhere.  It has to be transported, often from great distances.  It will generally have been produced with chemical and energy inputs, as well as someone else’s labor.  If you throw half of it away, this is really wasteful.  Literally, you are wasting food that could be used to feed hungry people or just not produced in a wasteful way in the first place.

Assuming you’re an organic gardener, the only thing wasted if you throw something away you grew yourself is a bit of sunshine and your own time!

The most important goals for your garden have to be the ones you set for yourself.  If it weren’t for your own goals, there wouldn’t be any point in having a garden in the first place.  Whatever those goals are, feeding yourself or others, seed saving, plant breeding or just enjoying nature and biodiversity, this has to be your top priority in any garden.

Don’t let anyone tell you you are doing something wrong in your own garden!  At the same time, don’t be immune to input from others, because there’s lots of good information out there, especially for people just getting started.  It can really save you a lot of time by not making the same mistakes others already have.

Inputs and Outputs

While you’re enjoying yourself and pursuing your goals, give some thought to what you’re doing.  A garden really needs very few inputs.

If you set up a garden with new wood that comes from cleared land, is milled and transported, that’s really a huge resource you are using unnecessarily.  It’s expensive too.  Consider using used materials in your garden, like stones or bricks, or recycled wood.  Stones and bricks will last longer than wood too, which can be very useful.

The same is true with peat products.  While it’s true they are a renewable resource, they are generally not mined in a sustainable way and often have to be transported long distances.  If you live next to a peat bog, this is one thing, but otherwise as an alternative to peat products consider getting compost made from municipal (council) waste which is available in many areas, or better yet making your own compost.  Consider why you think you need peat in the first place, because it’s rarely necessary for use in the garden.  Peat is useful for indoor plants or starting seeds, because it is weed free and sterile.  It can also be useful for outdoor potted plants, because local soils are sometimes not well suited for this.  Since your garden is neither sterile or weed free, there are usually better and cheaper alternatives to peat.

Don’t be fooled by peat free alternatives either, like coir, which also have to be milled and transported long distances!  These are generally as wasteful as peat, and usually more expensive.

Consider most chemicals and fertilizers are also very wasteful as well as almost always unnecessary.  Almost everyone’s garden will do fine if you rotate your crops, make and use your own compost, and grow nitrogen fixing plants from time to time.

Consider collecting rainwater from the roofs of structures near you garden, perhaps your own house.  Perhaps collecting grey water from your house is an option.  Perhaps you have other renewable sources of water nearby.

While tempting to the beginning gardener, power tools like tillers are not usually very useful.  Consider getting one used, borrowing or renting one, until you are really sure it’s needed.  Non-electric power tools use an astonishing amount of fuel, often as much as a car, and in some US cities cause 15% of the air pollution.  Consider using something electric, or sticking to hand tools.

Finally, if you do end up with extra food that’s usable, consider ensuring it gets used.  Process and store it for later use, or give it away.  If you do throw it away, you aren’t hurting anyone or anything, but you can only do good by making sure it’s used somehow.