The Hedge

The Hedge

I’ve been meaning to do a post about the hedge in our garden for a while now, and it seemed like it would go along with the discussion on my post Wednesday about the dead ground and the cultural issues that go along with it.

Our garden complex includes four rows of gardens separated by canals like you see in this picture.  All of the gardens are surrounded by a hedge.  We are all responsible for maintaining the hedge that goes along the outside of our gardens, and I’m personally a bit screwed in this regard.  Because I have a double garden on the end of a row, I have hedge on three sides totalling about 50 linear meters!  Most gardens only have about 15 linear meters.

Since there is no electricity in the gardens, you certainly see a few gardeners starting up their gas (petrol) generators so they can plug in their electric hedge trimmers and trim their 15 meters of hedge (something that needs to be done every few weeks).  Some of the more environmentally minded gardeners use battery operated trimmer they charge at home.  Considering the maintenance and expense of the equipment involved, I don’t find there is much benefit to powered trimmers, so I just use a hand shears.  This is a bit time consuming, but not really a huge deal once it comes down to it.

The hedge is a constant source of irritation for most gardeners.  There are rules governing exactly how high the hedge must be, and the state it has to be kept in.  The management of the garden comes along regularly inspecting and enforcing these rules.  If you don’t take care of your hedge, they can fine you or bill you for the cost of taking care of it for you, and eventually you will lose your garden.  For gardens on the south side it means a shadow is cast on that part of their garden.  For all of us, the size of our gardens is calculated including the hedge and we pay for that space every year.  The hedge is nitrogen fixing, meaning it grows quickly and is a major source of weeds.  We all have to spend considerable effort fighting these weeds and maintaining barriers on the ground.  It’s also sometimes home to birds and other wildlife that are often garden pests.

You can see when it comes down to it some of us are better at taking care of it than others, like the bit in the middle of the picture above which is just growing wild.  Really it just never looks good, if you stand back and look at it as a whole.

One of the issues I personally have with the hedge is I needed to do a rather major cutting back when I first got my garden, and the space it needed in my compost pile was almost more than I had available.

The grass on the outside is also a similar issue, as we all need to take turns mowing it.

So the obvious question is if everyone hates it so much why don’t we get rid of it?  The answer is we can’t.

The garden complex was built on a piece of land which probably used to be used for grazing animals, so it was just open space.  Some overpaid civil servant, who has probably never had a garden and probably no idea how much of an irritation it would be to many of the people using the space, set about to do some urban planning.  With pencil and paper, and lots of committee meetings and associated paperwork, decided exactly how our garden complex would look.  They laid out the grass on the side, and choose the kind of plants used to make the hedge.  They laid out the size and shape of all our gardens.

These civil servants who do this kind of work in this country are held in very high esteem.  Often their names go along with their work, and sometimes they get to choose the names for the neighborhoods.  Often for generations after this work is done, and consideration is being given to building something else in the spot, there are emotional public meetings where people express how painful it is to undo the work of the genius who created the spot in the first place.

I think even if all of us gardeners rioted on city hall, we would be unable to change the urban planning that went into that hedge or the grassy areas around our gardens.  After all, what would really be the harm of putting up a row of trees to block the view from the street, then doing what we wanted with our gardens?  Well this would be violating the idea here of not allowing individual expression.

We also have a similar problem with the security fence that surrounds our garden complex.  There is a precise definition of a security fence in the Netherlands.  It’s a little less than 2 meters high and strong enough to keep it from just being kicked down.  It has to have a legally prescribed notice on it identifying it as a security fence, and if it is kept locked and someone breaches it, we can call the police and complain.  The city planning forbids us from building a fence that is any higher than this, and we regularly have people that jump the fence and vandalize gardens.  Realistically there is little the police can do, and we are not allowed to build a bigger fence to prevent the problem in the first place.

The situation is very straight forward.  The city owns the garden complex and is letting us use it.  If we don’t follow the rules, we will be fined and kicked out.  If we don’t like the rules, we are welcome to go to another garden complex in another city, but similar rules exist everywhere.  It’s not a matter of just going to a private garden complex and paying more, because there is probably no city in the Netherlands that would issue a zoning or use permit for someone to build and operate something like this.

In many neighborhoods the situation is similar if you own an apartment in a large building.  While you might own your apartment, the city controls the appearance of the outside of the building and surrounding area, so there is nothing the occupants can do to change this.  Even as a home owner in Amsterdam, there are rules about the color of paint I can use on the outside of my house, in particular plain white paint is absolutely forbidden.

I understand there are rules like this everywhere in the world, but I think they are really taken to an extreme here.

The Difference Beans Make

I have the same tomato plants growing in two different parts of my garden.  Both Matt’s Wild Cherry.  The first picture you can see beans growing at the base of the plant:

Matt´s Wild Cherry

Here in a different spot, on the three poles to the right, Matt’s Wild Cherry growing without beans:

Matt's Wild Cherry

In the background here you see my wind beaten Jerusalem artichokes, which by the way don’t seem to mind a shortage of nitrogen.

The poles are all the same size, about 180cm in total with about 1.5m sticking out above the ground.

You can see the tomato plants next to the beans are about 1 meter tall, and without the beans about 30cm.  To be honest, I did put the 30cm plants out in the garden a few weeks later, but that still doesn’t account for the entire difference in size.

I posted before about the ground test I did, which showed my nitrogen levels were ‘medium-low to low’, at least in the one spot I did the test.  It’s really becoming obvious just how low the overall nitrogen in my garden really is.  I did the soil test first, then added compost, so I assumed that would help a little bit.  I’ve also planted beans in several places.

What I’m seeing is anywhere a plant is not growing right next to a bean, it’s not doing very well.

I think because the nitrogen levels in the ground are so low, it’s contributing to the problem I mentioned in the last post about having ‘dead ground’, because all life needs nitrogen, and this in turn means the nutrients in the compost I added are becoming available to the plants only very slowly because there are no worms or insects to metabolize the compost.

Interestingly, my garlic is not showing signs of problems along these lines, but it’s hard to be completely sure.

With increasing urgency as I’ve been understanding what was going on I’ve been sowing beans through the garden, and most are germinating and growing by now.  Bush beans mature in about 90 days, so there’s still plenty of season left for them.  It’s clear as they begin to fix nitrogen, they are making a big difference to the neighboring plants.  I’ve used up nearly my entire stock of bean seeds!  The other problem I’ve been having is a minor water shortage, which I need to get the seeds to germinate, but fortunately we’ve been getting a little rain.

I don’t think there’s any real damage to the garden as a result, but a few things may not grow as large or produce as much in the end.  The row of tiny tomatoes probably won’t produce much, but they aren’t very important.  They are three different types of currant tomatoes that I was growing next to each other in order to compare them.  I’ll be just as happy getting fruits a month late, and I don’t need very many.

Rusty Garlic and Dead Ground

It’s always hard to take pictures of my garlic plants, because I have so many of them growing close together, but in the middle of this picture (the plants with their base at the bottom center) are some of my rustiest plants.  This is Kransnodar White garlic.  Kransnodar is a city in Siberia, and I think it was famous for it’s garlic in Soviet days.  In a few days these plants will be dead for sure, but I may still be able to harvest something from them.

I remember from last year this variety got rust badly too, and the bulbs I harvested were on the small side.

Rusty Garlic

Another variety getting bad rust is Tuscan, an Italian variety:

Rusty Garlic

These pictures don’t have enough resolution to see it clearly, but it looks like these plants have pox or something.  They are covered in lots of small brown spots.

I would say in general the rust seems worse than last year, but it’s still too early to say how bad it really is.  I’m so close to harvest, that every week the plants stay alive is very important.  These two pictures represent the worst, and most of my garlic really seems to be doing okay for the moment.  The severity of the rust seems to depend on the location in the garden, as well as the variety.  I’m learning the quality of soil in my garden varies greatly from spot to spot, and it’s clear that has an impact on the severity of the rust.  Exactly what the factors are behind this is less than clear however.

It’s been my intention to reduce the number of varieties I have, so any that get particularly bad rust which are not otherwise interesting, will probably get discarded.

Now I’m waiting for the potato blight to arrive.  It’s getting to be about time for that too!

Dry and Windy Weather

It’s been very dry recently.  Not particularly hot, but the wind is really drying out the ground.  Established plants in my garden don’t need a lot of watering, because while the water table is going down a bit in this weather, it’s not too far down and anything with deep roots can reach it.  I’ve recently planted some beans and a few other seeds, and it’s been a challenge to keep them wet enough to germinate, because the ground is so sandy every time I add water it just drains through.  Parts of my garden are even rich with seashells!

So far the only victim of the wind were a few of my Jerusalem artichoke plants, but I guess these will grow back.

This dry weather has really given me a different perspective on the soil of my garden.  Beside noticing how sandy it is, I’ve been noticing anything that’s not growing next to beans has not been doing very well, which seems to go along with my soil test of a few months ago that showed a general lack of nitrogen.  It’s also just increasingly clear the ground is very lacking in organic material.  I have really added a lot of compost in recent months brought from my previous garden, but it has not really had a lot of time to become incorporated and more would probably help.

I’ve noticed the ground in my garden is mostly ‘dead’.  There are very few worms or insects living in it, with the exception of a lot of ants.

If you are a commercial farmer (at least in this part of the world), the ideal situation is ‘dead’ ground.  Organic material is usually not desirable, and is best avoided when possible.  Pure clay, silt or sand, or some mixture of these three is the best.  The reason for this is farmers have a system of growing crops with chemicals that works very well for them, and if the ground is ‘dead’ there are simply fewer variables for them to deal with.  The nutrient balance of the ground (or perhaps the complete lack of nutrients) is generally known in advance so a preset amount of fertilizer can be added.  Most chemical fertilizers don’t remain in the ground for more than a growing season, because they are water soluble, so every year you are starting fresh.   All of the pests and diseases are mostly known quantities, and there are chemicals available to deal with these.

It’s part of the culture here that individual thinking is not encouraged, and there is often a social price to be paid if you think and act differently than others.  Perhaps in part for this reason, most people here seem to take the same approach with gardening that farmers take, and prefer ‘dead’ ground with chemicals added.  It’s certainly an issue that divides people mostly according to nationality in my garden complex, with compost being made and used mostly by non-Dutch born gardeners, and the point of some contention.  Since the previous gardener was Dutch-born, it’s logical to think the approach he took was to promote dead ground, but I don’t know for sure.

It’ll be interesting to see how my garden changes as I add more organic material, and try to promote more life processes in the soil.  I’m curious how long it will take before I notice real changes.

Food Growing Get-Together, Speakers Needed!

Date and Location

These are now confirmed, and as follows:

20 September 2008, 9:30am – 5:30pm

Oxford Botanic Garden, High Street, Oxford

Coffee and Tea provided

Costs

I am not looking to make any profit on this, so I will total up the costs at the end and ask everyone to pay a portion of this according to the number of people who attend.

I expect this to be about £10-15 per person, including entrance fee to the garden.

An International Event

Kate from Hills and Plains Seedsavers will travel from Australia to be with us!  I will come from Amsterdam.

Accommodation in Oxford

I expect most people attending will travel to and from their homes, but if you want to stay overnight in Oxford rooms are available at some of the colleges.   I will be staying at Queen’s College, within walking distance of the Botanic Garden.

Limited Spaces Available

There are a very limited number of seats available.  The room we have holds exactly 25 people, and there is simply no space for anyone else to stand to the side or to squeeze in one more chair.  I hope to accommodate everyone who wants to attend, but may have to turn away some late comers.  It’s very important you tell me if you decide later not to attend, otherwise your seat will be empty and someone else may miss the opportunity to come.

For anyone who has not already told me they want to attend, I’m afraid I won’t be able to confirm space until closer to the time.  Please let me know as soon as possible if you are interested.

Are you expecting to come, but you don’t see a link to your blog below?  Get in touch, it probably means I’ve forgotten about you.

Is there a link to your blog below, but you don’t plan to come?  Let me know!  Someone else wants your seat(s).

I will be sending emails in August to everyone confirming their attendance.  If you will be away all or most of August, please let me know in advance so I can confirm this with you before you leave.

Picnic

Rain or shine we will have a picnic, so bring any food you want to share with others.  Since most of us are gardeners, consider bringing something from your garden, but anything you want to bring is fine.

Also bring something to sit on, and anything else you want for the picnic.

Our room can be locked, so personal belongings can be left inside while we go outdoors.

In case of bad weather, we can eat indoors.

Seed Swap

Be sure to bring any seeds or other propagation materials you want to share with others.  I will bring some seeds and other things from my garden.

The most interesting of course are seeds you have grown and saved yourself, but don’t be afraid to bring any seeds you think anyone else might be interested in.

You don’t need to bring seeds in order to receive them from others.

Speakers Needed!

At the moment we don’t have any speakers scheduled, except I plan to say a few words about what I’m growing in my garden.  If you would like to talk about your garden or anything else, please let me know.  Please let me know if you have other ideas about people we might invite, or just things you would like to hear about.

With or without speakers the event will go ahead.  If necessary we will just chat with each other, or walk around the gardens, but it will be a lot more interesting if we can find some people to speak to us too.

Sunday

The main event is on Saturday, but I will be around Sunday as well.  Are you interested in making informal plans on this day too?  Let me know.  Kate from Hills and Plains will be around Sunday too.  I may visit some people’s gardens or allotments this day.

Other Get-Togethers

Ours is not the only blogger’s get together being planned!  On August 24th in a number of places in Australia, France and the US there will be several blogging/food growing gardener get-togethers.  Have a look on Ian’s blog for more details.  If you are planning or know of other get-togethers, please leave a comment below and let people know about it.

MustardPlaster
Spade Work
Daughter of the Soil
The plot thickens
Vegmonkey and the Mrs.
Joanna’s Food
Growing Our Own
The smallest smallholding
A Blog Called Fuggles
Veg Plotting
Soilman’s Allotment Blog
My Tiny Plot
Manor Stables Veg Plot
Fluffius Muppetus
NomeGrown
Purple Podded Peas
A Nice Green Leaf
Hills and Plains

Real Seeds from Garlic Plants

I’ve posted a few times about the production of garlic seeds but haven’t gone into a lot of depth. Honestly, I don’t know very much, but I hope to learn more this year.

The basic idea is this. Garlic normally reproduces asexually, either through root divisions in the form of cloves that can be replanted to grow more bulbs, or bulbils that form on the tops of some garlic varieties. Garlic does not normally produce true flowers that can cross pollinate with neighboring plants. Perhaps at one time in it’s evolution it did reproduce sexually, and it’s been observed that sometimes when you remove the bulbils as they are developing it can cause the plant to try to reproduce sexually. Some people have had success making garlic seed in this way.

This is reported to be a very difficult and tedious process.

Some people reading this know that shallot seeds have become available in the last few years, something that likely came about from a similar process.

I’ve been chatting informally via email with someone named Avram who lives in Oregon and has been doing this for some years now.   He has sent me a lot of interesting information.

Recently Avram gave me permission to go through our private emails, and cut and paste some of the more relevant parts into an Internet post. That’s the purpose of this post.

Some things like Avram’s personal notes or contacts, or some research papers he forwarded me I’m not going to publish on the Internet. I’m also going to replace some people’s names with initials to protect their privacy. If you want some of these things, or you want to get in touch with Avram, please send me an email and let me know. If you send me an email and tell me you want to get in touch with Avram, I’ll forward your email to him and he will get in touch with you if he wants.

Text in bold are excerpts of email I sent to Avram.

Block quoted text are excerpts of email Avram sent to me.

Hi Patrick. JG forwarded your e-mail to me. You had asked him primarily about rust in garlic. On that i know little as i haven’t experienced it. Here’s a couple of sites that deal with disease:

http://plant-disease.ippc.orst.edu/plant_searchResults.cfm?search_str=garlic&host_alpha=Select&host_text=garlic&submit=++Go%21++

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/selectnewpest.onion-and-garlic.html

I have grown garlic for about 13 years and have grown around 150 supposed cultivars. Currently i have 80 accessions. I just got some land i can actually farm on so instead of growing around 400 lbs. i’ll hopefully grow over 2000.

This is worth reading: http://www.ars.usda.gov/Research/docs.htm?docid=5232

It is very helpful to read the Volk study: http://www.garlicseedfoundation.info/allium_sativum_DNA.htm If you can get through the academic language, this study is important to understanding garlic.

In the classification system popular in the States, there are 10 categories. Gatersleben uses a different system. The Volk study looks at genetics. I find that after 3-5 years of adaptation that variation in some categories is next to nil. The Volk found that there was a lot of duplication both within the USDA collection and in two major garlic seed (clone) companies: Filaree and The Garlic Store. The SSE collection is filled with duplicates!

In terms of true seed, most garlic is male infertile. Fertility is often indicated by the presence of purple anthers, though there are exceptions. The USDA has done seed production viability studies; however i’ve had very good results on varieties they have not and vice versa. Seed production tends not to be consistent on varieties one year
to the next. Let me know if you’re interested in doing it. I can tell you that is is very time consuming, that breeding new varieties will take years and that professionals have already produced millions of seeds and grown out out numerous generations of progeny. My first year i got a few seeds, none germinated. The next, i plucked bulbils from over 80 inflorescences, got 37 seeds and only one germinated. This last
year i plucked from 132, got 371 seeds and i have started them yet. My one seedling is very strange. It’s in a pot and still growing….

In my SSE listing i had asked if anyone was working on this in hopes of dialog with anyone else but have had no response. Other than the USDA and the Israelis, i don’t know of anyone still working on this. I think agribusiness growers gave up as they found it not cost effective for seed to bulb to seed crop production, especially with cheap imports from China.

A short time ago, you left a comment here on my blog, but didn’t leave
an email address so I didn’t know how to get in touch with you:

http://bifurcatedcarrots.eu/?p=219#comments

Hi Patrick. Funny i left that comment. I’ve never posted a comment before on the computer and didn’t think it actually worked. In winter i look on the net to find a new research into seed production and one of my searches led me to your site.

The Volk study found that all but one of the Porcelain phenotypes tested were duplicates. My observation concur with this with one exception: Mexican Red, a nebulous name for a garlic which looks and tastes like every other Porcelain except that it has purple anthers and produces seed. I did get viruses on most of my Porcelain which made it that much easier to discontinue most of them. I also found that most of the Artichokes were barely distinguishable after 3-5 years. Turbans as well. I have trialled Turbans collected by friends, family, a neighbor’s friend’s missionary daughter, etc. from places like Corella, Euzkadi (Basque territory), Eastern Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan,Thailand, China, Sonoran desert region (USA), etc. Sometimes i think there’s better color in one to the next or that average maturity dates are a little off but if the sampling is large enough even these “differences” are unconvincing. Leaf architecture, width, length, scape length, maturity dates, anthers, etc–these are all basically the same, /in my climate, soil, and latitude/ here in SW Oregon. When i got the Turban that friends brought back from Bangkok it was a white bulb with white cloves and an odd cloves configuration. After 2 seasons it was a typical Turban. My soil and water have a high iron content which affects coloration. The category i’ve seen the most diversity in is Asiatics. I have yet to see two identical cultivars. Most interesting to me are the one that do not fit into any of the categories. I have several in my collection including a few collected in the wild. If you have the ’04 SSE Harvest Edition there is an article by Rich Hannon on a seed collection mission in Turkmenistan. I am growing the two garlic he found (2nd year). In the first season they changed from where they had been adapted to (Pullman, WA, Southeastern WA state) but neither was particularly viable for seed production. We shall see.

Here are a couple more links.

this is Gatersleben and it’s interesting to see how they classify.

http://pgrc-35.ipk-gatersleben.de/apps/gcc/core_collection.htm#_Taxonomic_Af

the garlic and health project was based in the NL. this is the results page, though there is much more on the site. Interestingly i too found that application of sulfur fertilizer increased pungency in garlic and it’s a fun thing to experiment with.

http://www.plant.wur.nl/projects/garlicandhealth/Results.htm

I am attaching a research paper. It is current and it gives you an idea of how far the true seed thing has been taken, at least by Israelis who have some very well funded research. It’s a little discouraging at times to do so much work on something that others have already taken a long long way but i am a garlic geek, a grower not a scientist and i want to breed my own varieties.

Hi Patrick. I recall you looking in to rust in garlic. I was looking in some old Garlic Seed Foundation zine and found a note that you probably already know but i thought i’d share with you.

“Rust is caused by /Puccinia porri./ It varies on different hosts and different strains of the fungus have different levels of virulence to various allium species. The fungus overwinters as spores on field trash and hedge rows and is blown long distances in the wind. The disease occurs most frequently under conditions of high humidity and low rainfall (immersion in water reduces spore viability). Spores need at least 4 hours at 97% RH to germinate and infect. Rust is enhanced by plant stress from too wet, too dry and excessive nitrogen. Control is limited”… Basically clean seed, good crop rotation, separate field and control of allium weeds.

Hi Avram,

I have another question for you.

At what stage do you usually pluck the bulbils? Do you do it while the scape is still fairly immature, or do you wait until the bulbils have begun to develop and are exposed?

About what date do you usually start this?

Hi Patrick. I’ve experimentented with different things. I’ve cut the scapes before elongation, put them in water and eventually they elongate, swell and open. I’ve left them to natuarlly elongate, and open. I’ve foliar fed them to keep vegetative growth process to continue as long as possible. My best result was to do this: foliar feed weekly to try to keep the plant alive and pluck the bulbils when the spathes began to open. When the stems really started dying i cut them and put them in water. I’ve hand pollinated with small paint brushes but the bees seem attacted to them and i’ve rubbed cut inflorescences against others during anthesis. As far as plucking goes, i’ve tried a number of different tweezers. Some varieties are easy, others are very difficult. There seem to be layers that emerge at at different times. It’s challenging to avoid breaking the pedicals, the delicate flowers stalks while plucking.

It’s been a very cool wet Spring here. Usually, or at least since i’ve been keeping records, i’ve harvested all the Turbans and started on some of the Asiatics. This year i’ve harvested only two experimental varieties from SE Asia. Great year for brassicas, not so good for solanums, except spuds. I’m delving into the world of tractors and implements to work up the pasture and get it cover cropped. While last year i plucked bulbils from 131 plants, i don’t see myself having the time to do as much this year, especially becuase none of the 370 or so seeds i collected germinated which is very discouraging. The one plant i grew from seed is doing great, potted up and in its second year.

How’s your season thus far? How’s the garlic look? When is your harvest period?

I’m attaching my records from last year. The nebulously named “Mexican Red” is the only Porcelain appearing bulb to have purple anthers that i’ve experimented with and i’d hoped it’d be good for crosses.

I don’t recall what all links i gave you but here’s the updated ATTRA publication (they are the BEST resource for organic/sustainable agriculture i’ve found.

http://attra.ncat.org/calendar/new_pubs.php/2008/04/11/garlic_organic_production

This is another interesting one: http://www.bignewsforgarlic.com/

Hours of reading here: I have a glossary of botanical nomenclature handy when pouring though any of the academic research. http://igb.agri.gov.il/allium_page.pl#Allium_Collecting_Missions_and_Research_Activity