Seed Swaps

Emma of The Fluffius Muppetus blog and The Alternative Kitchen Garden podcast just reminded me it’s the season for seed swaps.  Check out her latest podcast.

For those of you in the UK within traveling distance of Brighton, you may want to visit Seedy Sunday on 3 February.  Everyone else will have to search around themselves.  I’m sure there are Seedy Saturdays and Sundays going on across Canada this year, and the links on the front of this blog may help you find more information about these.

For those of you who don’t have any seeds to share, these events almost always have free seeds or seeds available for purchase.

Reading Material

Thank you everyone who left comments on my Free Gardening Books post from several days ago mentioning books. A few that stood out for me were:

Fukuoka, Masanobu; The One-Straw Revolution (1978): This is a very famous book among natural/organic gardeners. Translated from Japanese, it is Fukuoka’s account of how he changed the way people looked at agriculture in Japan and developed his own very clever no-till methods that can be adapted and used by anyone anywhere in the world. This is a very short book, and doesn’t take long to read, which is handy for an e-book you are trying to read on a computer screen.

Burr, Fearing; The Field and Garden Vegetables of America (1863): This is a great historic account of the edible plants cultivated in the US in 1863. A complete manual for the vegetable gardener. The book discusses the pros and cons of different varieties available at the time, as well as offering advice on cultivation. It’s great fun to read the old style English language and word choices used in the book. It’s interesting as well to look at the Latin names assigned to the different plants at the time and compare them to modern Latin names, because they’ve changed quite a bit.

Søren pointed out this book to me:

Krasil’nikov, N.A. Soil Microorganisms and Higher Plants: The Soil and Health library in Tasmania, Australia describes this as one of the most important in it’s collection. Written by a Soviet scientist, it is a detailed text of soil sciences as they were seen in the time. While the west was busy developing new plant varieties and agricultural chemicals, this book describes the approach that was taken in at least part of the Soviet Union to boost it’s agricultural yields.

Lieven also pointed me to a UK Soil Association publication, and with a little browsing on their website I see they have quite a few interesting things available for download. They seem to regularly regenerate the links on their website which makes it impossible to link to any of them here, because the links would stop working by the time I posted them. They have no reuse policy or Creative Commons style licensing that I can see so I sent them an email asking for permission to make some of their publications available for download here, but they didn’t reply, so I don’t have permission to do that.

What kind of organization goes to such trouble to make reading material available to the public, but then makes it impossible to reuse?

Anyway, if you care to, you can go to the UK soil association website and use their search engine to find some of their publications. A few I would recommend are:

SilentInvasionEXECSUMMlores
one planet agriculture

How Long Are Seeds Good For?

This is a question that comes up frequently, and was recently asked by farmgirl_dk in a discussion on Future House. I thought rather than write a very long comment I would make a post about it here.

When you buy a packet of seeds it almost always comes printed with a message saying the seeds are intended for planting in the current gardening year. The question is, can you keep the seeds longer?

In North America seed companies are generally required by law to germination test seeds before they sell them, and the test results are only valid for a few months (about 6 I think). If seeds do not have a minimum germination rate, the seed companies are not allowed to sell them. Once the period of validity for the germination test expires, they either have to be retested or discarded.

What this means is most of the larger seed companies will simply have a large stock of seeds for a particular plant and germination test them each year. Each year if they pass they sell them, otherwise they discard them.

Outside of North America germination testing is not always required. I’ve certainly on more than one occasion purchased a packet of dead seeds here in Amsterdam.

Few seed companies want to admit they are selling very old seeds, so they are generally not labelled with the year they were actually produced. In order to predict how long seeds will last, you really have to have some idea of how old they are.

Since a very important factor in how long seeds last is how well they are stored, and when you buy a packet of seeds you have no idea if it was handled correctly throughout the whole distribution process, it’s very hard to know the condition of seeds when you get them. This is one of the reasons the validity period of the germination test is only a few months, and they are labelled as intended for use within a short period of time.

What I’ve said so far mostly applies to larger seed companies, and seeds purchased through seed catalogs or at garden centers.

If however you purchase seeds directly from a small reputable seed company, like the ones listed on the front page of this blog, they will generally not only label the seeds with the year they were produced but also properly store them up until the time they send them to you. They also don’t usually sell you seeds more than a year or two old. Assuming you store them properly yourself, it is possible to have a good idea of how long these seeds will last. Of course the same thing applies to seeds you have saved yourself.

How Long Are they Good For?

Every plant is a little different, but assuming proper storage, here are some times for common vegetables:

Tomatoes: 5-10 years

Peppers: 3 years

Sweet Corn: 3 years

Other Corn: 5-10 years

Parsnips: 1 year

Cole Plants: 5 years

Carrots: 3 years

Beets and Chard: 6 years

Lettuce: 3 years

Spinach: 5 years

What Happens When They Go Bad?

When seeds get too old their rate of germination decreases, and the chances of them developing into a plant is less.

In general, the only thing that matters for a healthy plant is the DNA contained within the seed. If you have old seed, you manage to get it to germinate and it grows into a plant, there is no reason why that plant should be any less healthy than one grown from a fresh seed.

Your Own Germination Test

If you have some seeds and you want to know if they are still good, one of the best ways to find out is to do your own germination test. To do this, take a few seeds and set them between a few layers of wet paper towel for several days to a week, then count the number of seeds that germinated and compute them as a percentage of the total number of seeds. A germination rate above 50% usually means the seeds are suitable for planting. Less than 50% means you will probably really struggle to get them to grow, and you should get fresh seeds if possible. A germination rate between 50-80% means you should probably sow the seeds closer together in your garden then thin them after they germinate.

Proper Storage

I’ve made a number of posts in the past on the proper way to store seeds, for example here.

In general, proper storage means in a dry place at a steady temperature, in paper or plastic envelopes or bags. The actual temperature in not too critical, but it’s better if it’s on the cool side. You should always protect your seeds from direct sunlight. The bottom of a closet is a good choice.

For longer term storage there are a number of options, like refrigerating or freezing the seeds. For this to be done properly the seeds must be completely dry and stored in a container such as a glass jar with a rubber seal. These storage options always involve some risk, and shouldn’t be used for short term storage. These storage options are rarely useful for purchased seeds with an unknown production date.

Properly freezing seeds will generally extend their shelf life 10 times over unfrozen seeds, so for example tomato seeds up to 100 years, pepper seeds up to 30 years and so on.

No to GMOs in Europe

The European Union is in the final throws of approving commercial planting of GM crops, the result of pressure from the US, Canada and Argentina. Enough is enough! Europe does not need GM products.

GM crops do not offer any benefit to the consumer or farmer. There is no evidence that any claims of disease resistance, insect resistance or increased yields made by the manufacturers are true in the long term. The only benefit is for the seed companies, so they can own the rights to the food we eat, and spread that ownership by contaminating the environment and our food with their genetic material.

No to GM in Our Food

0.9% GM material is currently allowed, even in certified organic foods. Just who thought of this limit anyway! This limit should be 0%. There is currently no formal or mandatory testing. Testing should be mandatory, and when food is found above legal limits it should be promptly removed from the market.

No GM for Livestock

Most meat and dairy products in Europe are produced with GM animal feed. There is no reason for this, and it should be stopped at once.

Certified organic animals are not allowed to be fed GM feed, but there is no formal testing for this. Random informal testing suggests 20% of supposed GM-free animal feed in fact contains more than the allowed 0.9% level of GM materials. Mandatory testing and enforcement of these limits should be put in place.

No More Trials

For years now permission has been given for trial plantings of GM crops in Europe.

These trials should stop.  We don’t need any GM crops grown here.

No to Products Made from GM Organisms

Many common products such as rennet used in hard cheeses, vitamins and food supplements, aspartame sweetener and pharmaceuticals are made with the assistance of genetically modified bacteria, yeasts or other microorganisms. There are many suspected or known health problems associated with these products, many very serious and life threatening.

Some of these are certifiable organic ingredients and can be in organic foods!

Those products which can be replaced with alternatives and products which have no true clinical value should be removed from the market, and those remaining should be clearly labelled for what they are.